In a Sunburned Country Summary

“Here is a country that is so vast and so remote that entire groups of people can conduct secret nuclear bomb tests—and no one will notice for years.”

1. Australia: Vast, Remote, and Undervalued

Australia, despite its massive size and unique characteristics, often goes unnoticed in global attention. The world barely acknowledges the unusual and fascinating events that take place there. For example, in 1993, mysterious seismic activity in the Great Victoria Desert puzzled experts. Years later, it was linked to covert nuclear testing by a Japanese cult. This event barely made global headlines, symbolizing how overshadowed Australia often is.

The uniqueness of Australia extends to its flora and fauna. Roughly 80% of its plants and animals can’t be found anywhere else, emphasizing its position as a natural treasure trove. Yet, its vastness complicates an accurate tally of these species. For example, the continent could host between 100,000 to 200,000 insect species, but up to half remain undocumented.

Australia’s isolation, size, and biodiversity make it a land of contrasts. From tropical rainforests to barren deserts, its environments brim with curiosity and wonder, but the country’s significance remains underappreciated globally.

Examples

• 1993 seismic activity later attributed to secret nuclear tests.
• 80% of plant and animal life unique to Australia.
• Estimates ranging up to 200,000 insect species, many of which are still unknown.

2. Experiencing Australia Through Train Travel

Taking the Indian Pacific train from Sydney to Perth, Bryson experienced the full scope of Australia’s daunting vastness. Crossing 2,720 miles through three states, the journey revealed the extremes of the land, like Broken Hill and White Cliffs, small towns highlighted by their survival in the unforgiving outback.

In White Cliffs, he was struck by the town’s resourcefulness and history. Residents live in homes carved from cliffs to escape the intense heat. Although the population is now sparse, the town thrived in the past with opal mining and sheep farming before droughts triggered decline.

The Nullarbor Plain underscored the country’s immense emptiness. Translated as “no tree,” this arid, treeless stretch of land stretched farther than the mind could comfortably grasp. Its stark beauty offered a vivid reminder of the struggles early settlers must have faced.

Examples

• Journey covering three states over 2,720 miles.
• White Cliffs’ cave-like homes reveal resilience to heat.
• The Nullarbor Plain’s description as a “desert four times the size of Belgium.”

3. Australia’s Long and Complex History of Discovery

Though British navigator James Cook is often credited with discovering Australia in 1770, the land was home to the Aboriginal people for 45,000 to 60,000 years. The Europeans’ late arrival reveals much about their fabled quests for Terra Australis Incognita.

Before Cook, explorers Luís Vaez de Torres and Abel Tasman came astonishingly close to discovering Australia but missed it by mere margins. Evidence like Portuguese cannons found on Carronade Island suggests European contact even earlier, but little concrete evidence exists.

Cook’s arrival marked a turning point. Beyond claiming the land for Britain, his voyage provided invaluable contributions to botany, with his crew identifying thousands of new plant species. However, the title of discovery overlooks the complex and ancient Aboriginal heritage already thriving on the continent.

Examples

• Torres and Tasman’s near-misses of the Australian landmass.
• Portuguese cannons hinting at earlier European contact.
• Cook’s botanist Joseph Banks adding 30% to known plant varieties.

4. A Penal Colony’s Formation and Survival

Australia’s modern European history began as an open-air prison. When Britain lost its American colonies and needed an alternative site for prisoners, it turned to Australia. The First Fleet arrived in 1788 with 1,500 convicts, but the settlers faced immense challenges.

They were unprepared for Australia’s harsh environment. Their tools were inadequate, and they lacked the agricultural know-how needed to farm the land effectively. According to Bryson, the initial settlement at Botany Bay was so desolate it forced the colonists to relocate further north to what became Sydney.

Despite this rocky start, the colony endured. Over time, these convicts and settlers laid the foundations of what would become an enduring nation, though one built on the misfortunes of its early inhabitants.

Examples

• First Fleet’s arrival with 1,500 convicts at Botany Bay.
• Settlers’ reliance on London’s poor planning and inappropriate tools.
• Forced relocation to Circular Quay and present-day Sydney.

5. Sydney’s Modern Appeal and Historical Denial

Sydney today boasts attractions like its Harbour Bridge and iconic Opera House. However, its proud modernity contrasts with its silent acknowledgment of its convict origins. Bryson was amazed that no monuments at Circular Quay, the site of the First Fleet, honored Sydney’s beginnings.

Even major museums barely recognize Sydney’s former life as a penal colony. Historians, such as Robert Hughes, confirm this erasure, as the topic of convict origins only entered school curriculums in the 1960s. Yet, Bryson enjoyed the city, describing ferries on the bustling harbor and its friendly neighborhoods as rejuvenating.

Sydney’s dichotomy—its beauty and its denied history—paints a picture of a place seemingly eager to embrace its present while shying away from its foundations.

Examples

• Missing monuments at Circular Quay.
• Historical omissions in the Museum of Sydney and National Maritime Museum.
• Sydney’s sunny neighborhoods and communal ferries.

6. Gold Rush Fever and National Identity

The 1850s gold rush transformed Australia and helped pave its path toward becoming a united nation. Edward Hargraves, inspired by California’s landscapes, discovered gold near Bathurst, sparking years of feverish mining.

The gold rush doubled the population within a decade as treasure hunters from around the world streamed into Australia. It not only boosted the economy but also altered perceptions; transporting criminals to Australia became illogical, as they might find gold instead.

This newfound prosperity prepared the six colonies to federate in 1901. A desire to resolve inefficiencies like inter-colonial tariffs and time differences led to a united Commonwealth, marking the start of modern Australia.

Examples

• Edward Hargraves’ discovery near Bathurst and Orange.
• Population boom and cessation of prisoner transports by 1868.
• Federation of six colonies into the Commonwealth in 1901.

7. Social Legacy of Mistreatment of Aboriginal People

Australia’s dark history regarding its Aboriginal population continues to create a divide. Aboriginal communities face worse health, employment, and educational outcomes compared to their white counterparts.

Policies such as those targeting the Stolen Generation—a practice of removing Aboriginal children from families—left lasting scars. Bryson learned from legal advocate Jim Brooks about its devastating long-term effects, from substance abuse to middle-aged alienation.

Though Aboriginal culture remains a rich and ancient part of Australia, the systemic inequality requires ongoing attention and reconciliation. Their story is a reminder of a history many Australians are still reckoning with today.

Examples

• Life expectancy disparity of 20 years between Aboriginal and white Australians.
• Stolen Generation policies removing one in ten Aboriginal children.
• Long-term effects such as high rates of grief-related suicides and substance abuse.

8. Natural Wonders Come in All Sizes

Even in remote regions like Alice Springs and Uluru, Australia’s marvels astound. The vast monolith of Uluru spans 1.5 miles and rises 1,150 feet, embodying eons of resilience as Earth’s forces have eroded surrounding sandstone.

In contrast, the Great Barrier Reef off the coast of Queensland teems with color and life, covering up to 214,000 square miles. Bryson delighted in observing tangs and starfish from a submarine platform.

From deserts to coral reefs, Australia offers a raw glimpse of nature’s artistry, reminding visitors that its varied ecosystems are as impressive as they are delicate.

Examples

• Uluru standing steadfast for 100 million years.
• Great Barrier Reef housing over 1,500 fish species.
• Vast emptiness of regions like Nullarbor and Stuart Highway’s desert stretches.

9. Perth: The City of Sunshine and Unique Flora

Bryson concluded his exploration in Perth. With sunny weather and cheerful locals, it left a lasting positive impression. Its botanical richness also fascinated Bryson.

Kings Park, one of Australia’s largest urban parks, showcases the immense diversity of Australian flora. The country’s poor soil quality has fostered plant specialization, enabling unique species to thrive.

In its isolation, Perth, like Australia at large, celebrates individuality and resilience, offering visitors a warm and welcoming experience amidst its vast terrains.

Examples

• Kings Park’s 25,000 species of plants, compared to Britain’s 1,600.
• Trees’ adaptations to nickel, copper-rich soils, and drought.
• Perth’s geographic remoteness creating an independent, sunny atmosphere.

Takeaways

1. Avoid interacting with unknown wildlife and shells—some of Australia’s species, like the cone snail, are deceptively dangerous.
2. Visit Australia's natural marvels like Uluru and the Great Barrier Reef but plan ahead for accessibility and seasonal factors.
3. Learn about Aboriginal history before traveling; understanding their challenges fosters respect and awareness.