Introduction
Garlic, the humble bulb that has graced kitchens and medicine cabinets for millennia, takes center stage in Liz Primeau's fascinating exploration, "In Pursuit of Garlic." This book is a love letter to the pungent allium that has captured the hearts and taste buds of cultures around the world. Primeau, a self-proclaimed garlic fanatic, takes readers on a journey through time and across continents, unraveling the rich history, medicinal properties, and culinary significance of this remarkable plant.
From ancient Chinese treatises to modern scientific studies, from Roman aristocrats to French royalty, garlic's story is as layered and complex as its flavor. Primeau not only delves into the historical and cultural aspects of garlic but also provides practical advice for growing, harvesting, and using this versatile bulb. Whether you're a seasoned gardener, a curious cook, or simply someone who appreciates the depth garlic brings to a dish, this book offers a wealth of information and inspiration.
The Miracle Properties of Garlic
Garlic's reputation as a miracle worker in both the kitchen and the medicine cabinet is well-deserved and has been recognized for thousands of years. Primeau takes us on a journey through time, exploring how different cultures have harnessed the power of this pungent bulb.
Ancient Wisdom
In China, during the Ming Dynasty, the "Jiuhuang bencao" – a treatise on herbal remedies – extolled the virtues of garlic. It was recommended for a wide range of ailments, from infections to parasites, and even as a diuretic. The versatility of garlic in traditional Chinese medicine is a testament to its perceived healing powers.
Indian Ayurvedic medicine also embraced garlic wholeheartedly. Practitioners used it in skincare treatments, as a digestive tonic, and to treat various conditions such as abdominal diseases, rheumatism, and hemorrhoids. The combination of garlic and honey was particularly prized as a remedy for wet coughs, fevers, and even worms.
Even in ancient Rome, garlic was recognized for its medicinal properties. Pliny the Elder, the renowned naturalist, advised using garlic in various preparations to treat a range of conditions. He suggested pounding it with vinegar and water to create a gargle for throat boils, roasting and mixing it with oil to soothe insect bites, and combining it with fat to treat tumors.
Modern Research
While the ancients may have relied on observation and tradition, modern science has begun to uncover the chemical basis for garlic's healing properties. The key compound responsible for many of garlic's benefits is allicin, an oxygenated sulfur compound that gives garlic its distinctive taste and smell.
Research conducted at the State University of New York in Albany has shown that fresh garlic has significant antibacterial properties. While not as potent as penicillin, garlic was found to inhibit the growth of E. coli bacteria effectively. Another study at the same university demonstrated that a garlic mouthwash could significantly reduce the presence of bacteria responsible for gum infections.
Perhaps even more impressive is garlic's antifungal properties. Studies have shown that garlic is more effective at treating certain yeast strains, such as candida, than the commonly used fungal agent nystatin.
These findings underscore the wisdom of traditional uses of garlic and suggest that incorporating more of this pungent bulb into our diets could have significant health benefits. Primeau emphasizes that consuming garlic raw maximizes its medicinal properties, as cooking can diminish the potency of allicin.
Garlic's Journey from Peasant Food to Royal Delicacy
The story of garlic's rise from humble origins to culinary stardom is a fascinating tale of changing tastes and cultural shifts. Primeau takes us through this transformation, highlighting the role of various historical figures and events in shaping garlic's reputation.
Roman Disdain
In ancient Rome, garlic was considered food fit only for the lower classes. The aristocracy turned their noses up at its strong smell and taste, relegating it to the realm of medicine rather than cuisine. This attitude persisted even after the fall of the Roman Empire, influencing the culinary preferences of other cultures that came into contact with Roman civilization.
Anglo-Saxon Adoption
The Anglo-Saxons, who inherited much of their culture from the Romans during their occupation of Britain, also adopted this snobbish attitude towards garlic. While Roman soldiers might have seasoned their meals with garlic, the upper classes considered it beneath them. This perception of garlic as peasant food persisted in Britain for centuries.
Monastic Preservation
Despite the disdain of the aristocracy, garlic found a sanctuary in monastery gardens. Between the 5th and 15th centuries, monks continued to cultivate and use garlic, both for its medicinal properties and as a seasoning in their own meals. This preservation of garlic cultivation in monastic settings played a crucial role in keeping the allium in European cuisine.
Royal Conversion
The turning point for garlic's reputation came in the late Middle Ages, particularly in France. In 1533, Catherine de Medici of Florence married King Henry II of France, bringing with her a retinue of personal chefs. These Italian cooks introduced garlic-infused dishes to the French court, sparking a culinary revolution.
One of the most enthusiastic converts to the garlic craze was Henry IV, Catherine's cousin-in-law. His love for raw garlic was so intense that he was rumored to have breath strong enough to knock an ox over at ten paces! This royal endorsement helped elevate garlic's status from peasant fare to a delicacy fit for kings.
Growing Garlic: A Guide for Enthusiasts
For those inspired to grow their own garlic, Primeau provides a comprehensive guide to cultivating this flavorful bulb. She emphasizes that homegrown garlic often surpasses the flavor and quality of store-bought varieties, making it well worth the effort.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Garlic thrives in cool weather and requires friable soil to develop its bulbs properly. Primeau recommends planting garlic in the fall, ideally three to four weeks before the first frost. This allows the plant to establish its roots before winter dormancy.
The ideal planting location is an open area with plenty of sunlight. Garlic can be grown in traditional vegetable rows or alongside perennial flowers in sunny borders. To prevent soil-borne diseases, it's important to rotate the crop each year.
Soil Preparation
The soil should be rich in organic matter and well-draining. Primeau suggests aiming for a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 7.5. To prepare the soil, mix compost or manure into the top six inches of soil. This creates the friable texture that garlic roots love.
Planting Process
To plant garlic, gently separate the bulbs into individual cloves, being careful not to damage the papery skin. Plant the cloves with the pointed end facing upwards, spacing them about four to six inches apart. Larger varieties may need more space. Rows should be at least eight inches apart to ensure each plant gets enough sunlight.
Care and Maintenance
Regular watering is crucial for healthy garlic development. Primeau advises providing each plant with one to two inches of deep watering every week. Insufficient water can stress the plants, leading to premature bulb development and a smaller harvest.
While not essential, fertilizer can boost growth. A nitrogen-rich blood meal fertilizer can be mixed into the beds at planting time and reapplied as needed throughout the growing season.
Harvesting and Storing Your Garlic Crop
Knowing when and how to harvest your garlic is crucial for maximizing flavor and ensuring proper storage. Primeau provides detailed guidance on this important stage of garlic cultivation.
Timing the Harvest
The key to determining the right harvest time is to watch the plants' leaves. When about half of the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest. This balance is important because harvesting too early results in less flavorful bulbs, while waiting too long can make the garlic susceptible to bacterial infection and spoilage.
Harvesting Technique
Once you've determined it's time to harvest, use a trowel to carefully loosen the soil around the bulbs. Gently pull the plants from the ground, taking care not to damage the bulbs. After harvesting, wash off any remaining soil, use a brush to remove dry matter, and trim the roots.
Curing and Storage
Proper curing is essential for long-term storage. After harvesting and cleaning, lay the bulbs on a wire rack to dry for about a week. Then, give them a final clean with a toothbrush and hang them up to cure for a month.
For winter storage, aim to keep the garlic at a temperature between 56 to 59 degrees Fahrenheit with about 45 to 50 percent humidity. Avoid storing garlic in the refrigerator, as the cold temperature can trick the bulbs into thinking it's winter, causing them to sprout.
The best storage methods include keeping the bulbs in mesh bags or, for a DIY approach, in the knotted legs of pantyhose. With proper storage, your homegrown garlic can last through the winter, providing you with flavorful cloves long after the harvest.
The Global Garlic Market: China's Dominance
Primeau's exploration of garlic extends beyond the garden to the global marketplace, where Chinese garlic has become a dominant force. This section of the book provides insight into the economic impact of China's garlic production and its effects on farmers worldwide.
China's Garlic Production
According to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, China is the world's leading producer of garlic. An astonishing 75 percent of the global garlic supply comes from China. This massive production has had significant impacts on garlic markets around the world.
Impact on North American Farmers
The flood of Chinese garlic into the North American market has been particularly devastating for local farmers. Between 2000 and 2005, U.S. imports of Chinese garlic skyrocketed from 365,000 pounds to 86 million pounds. This amount exceeds the annual production of California, America's garlic heartland, by five million pounds.
Canadian farmers have been similarly affected. Chinese garlic sells for as little as 40 cents a pound, while Canadian garlic costs at least Can$1.50 a pound. This price disparity has made it difficult for North American farmers to compete, with some finding it more economical to leave their crops unharvested.
Global Effects
The impact of Chinese garlic extends far beyond North America. In Thailand, for example, a trade agreement that opened the market to foreign competition saw the price of local garlic plummet from 60 cents a pound to just 25 cents a pound due to Chinese imports.
The situation has become so dire in some countries that governments have taken drastic measures. South Korea imposed a 315 percent tariff on Chinese garlic, leading to a trade dispute when China retaliated by banning imported South Korean mobile phones and polyethylene products. In India, authorities in the state of Bihar seized over 11,000 pounds of Chinese garlic being smuggled across the border in 2011.
Quality Concerns
While Chinese garlic dominates in terms of quantity and price, Primeau suggests that it often falls short in quality. The bland taste and tendency to sprout quickly that many consumers associate with supermarket garlic is often a result of the mass production and long-distance shipping of Chinese garlic.
This situation presents both a challenge and an opportunity for local garlic growers. While competing on price is difficult, there's a growing market for high-quality, locally grown garlic among consumers who prioritize flavor and freshness over cost.
Maximizing Garlic's Health Benefits
Throughout the book, Primeau emphasizes the health benefits of garlic. In this section, she provides practical advice on how to get the most out of garlic's medicinal properties in everyday cooking.
The Power of Raw Garlic
The key to accessing garlic's full range of health benefits lies in consuming it raw. This is because allicin, the compound responsible for many of garlic's medicinal properties, is destroyed by heat. A single clove of raw garlic contains about five milligrams of allicin, a powerful antioxidant that can help fight inflammation, cure yeast infections, and boost the immune system.
Incorporating Raw Garlic into Your Diet
While the idea of eating raw garlic might not appeal to everyone, there are many delicious ways to incorporate it into your meals:
Spreads and Sauces: Dishes like aioli, chimichurri, pesto, tapenade, and hummus all feature raw garlic.
Cold Soups: Spanish gazpacho is a refreshing soup that includes raw garlic.
Salsa Verde: This versatile "green sauce" is packed with raw garlic. Primeau provides a simple recipe: blend parsley, capers, garlic, anchovies, breadcrumbs, olive oil, and lemon juice.
Pasta Dishes: Adding minced raw garlic to pasta just before serving can provide a flavor boost and health benefits.
Grilled Meats: Rubbing a little raw garlic on a freshly grilled steak can enhance its flavor while adding nutritional value.
Cooking with Garlic
While raw garlic provides the most health benefits, Primeau acknowledges that cooked garlic is still beneficial and delicious. She suggests minimizing cooking time to preserve as much allicin as possible. Quick stir-fries or adding garlic towards the end of cooking can help maintain its beneficial properties.
Final Thoughts: The Enduring Appeal of Garlic
As Primeau's journey through the world of garlic comes to a close, she reflects on the enduring appeal of this remarkable plant. From its humble origins to its current status as a global culinary staple, garlic has proven its worth time and time again.
The author emphasizes that despite the dominance of mass-produced garlic in the global market, there's a growing appreciation for high-quality, locally grown varieties. This trend presents an opportunity for small-scale growers and garlic enthusiasts to cultivate and share superior garlic varieties.
Primeau also highlights the continuing research into garlic's medicinal properties. While ancient cultures may have been onto something with their use of garlic in traditional medicine, modern science is now providing evidence to support many of these practices. From its antibacterial properties to its potential role in heart health and cancer prevention, garlic continues to surprise researchers with its wide-ranging benefits.
The book concludes with a call to action for readers to explore the world of garlic more deeply. Whether it's trying new garlic-centric recipes, starting a garlic patch in the garden, or seeking out unique garlic varieties at local farmers' markets, there are countless ways to incorporate more of this flavorful and healthful bulb into our lives.
"In Pursuit of Garlic" is more than just a book about a pungent plant – it's a celebration of culinary tradition, agricultural practice, and the joy of growing and cooking with one of nature's most versatile ingredients. Primeau's passion for garlic shines through on every page, inviting readers to develop their own appreciation for this remarkable allium.
For those inspired by Primeau's work, the journey doesn't end with the last page of the book. The world of garlic is vast and varied, with new cultivars being developed and ancient varieties being rediscovered. Each bulb tells a story of the soil it grew in, the hands that tended it, and the culinary traditions it will become a part of.
In a world where food is increasingly industrialized and disconnected from its origins, garlic offers a tangible link to the earth and to centuries of human cultivation and culinary innovation. Whether you're a gardener, a cook, or simply someone who appreciates good food, "In Pursuit of Garlic" provides a roadmap for deepening your relationship with this essential ingredient.
As you close the book, you might find yourself reaching for a bulb of garlic, inspired to chop, crush, or roast it – or perhaps even to plant a clove and start your own garlic-growing adventure. And in doing so, you'll be joining a long line of garlic enthusiasts stretching back through history, all united by their appreciation for this small but mighty bulb.