Introduction
Bill Bryson's "Notes from a Small Island" is a love letter to Britain, written by an American who lived there for 20 years before deciding to move back to the United States. Before leaving, Bryson embarked on a farewell tour of the country he had come to call home, revisiting his favorite places and rediscovering what made him fall in love with Britain in the first place. The result is a humorous and insightful exploration of British culture, history, and geography, seen through the eyes of a sharp-witted outsider who has also become an insider.
Bryson's journey takes him from the south of England to the far reaches of Scotland, with plenty of stops along the way in both famous landmarks and lesser-known gems. Throughout his travels, he reflects on the quirks and charms of British life, from the national obsession with queuing to the peculiarities of place names. He also delves into the rich history and cultural heritage of the island, marveling at its density of important sites and notable figures.
This book is more than just a travelogue; it's a celebration of Britain's unique character and a gentle critique of its foibles. Bryson's observations are often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always infused with genuine affection for his adopted home. Through his eyes, readers gain a fresh perspective on a country that may seem familiar, but is full of surprises.
Britain: Small in Size, Big in Character
One of the first things Bryson emphasizes is the compact nature of Britain. Coming from the vast expanses of the United States, he is continually amazed by how much is packed into such a small area. To illustrate this, he points out that the River Thames, which looms so large in British history and culture, would only rank as the 108th largest river in the United States. Similarly, the Lake District, famous for its beautiful bodies of water, is smaller than the combined area of Minneapolis and St. Paul.
Yet despite its small size, Britain is densely populated. Bryson asks readers to imagine cramming the populations of several large American states into an area the size of Iowa to get a sense of how tightly packed the country is. This density contributes to the country's unique character, with cities, towns, and villages often nestled close together, each with its own distinct personality.
The author is particularly struck by the sheer number of important historical sites and notable individuals that Britain has produced. He recounts visiting a small village graveyard near Oxford and stumbling upon the graves of both George Orwell and H.H. Asquith, a former British Prime Minister. The casual way these luminaries are commemorated, with simple tombstones and humble inscriptions, speaks to the abundance of historical significance in Britain.
Oxford itself serves as another example of this concentration of importance. Within a small area, Bryson notes the presence of the lab where Edmond Halley discovered his famous comet, the track where Roger Bannister broke the four-minute mile, and the former home of Christopher Wren, the architect of St. Paul's Cathedral. This density of historical and cultural significance is a recurring theme throughout Bryson's journey.
A Rich Cultural Heritage
As Bryson travels around Britain, he is continually amazed by the country's rich cultural and historical heritage. He cites impressive statistics: 445,000 buildings listed for their architectural or historical importance, 12,000 medieval churches, and 600,000 known archaeological sites. Even his small village in Yorkshire, he notes, has more 17th-century buildings than all of North America combined.
However, Bryson also observes that this abundance sometimes leads to a lack of appreciation or proper protection. He criticizes lax planning regulations that allow for drastic alterations to historically important buildings, citing a case in Reading where a development company was fined a mere £675 for demolishing five buildings of special architectural and historical importance.
Despite these concerns, Bryson finds many well-preserved places that showcase Britain's heritage. He is particularly enamored with Durham, a historic city in northern England. The cathedral there, built by the Normans in 1093, is described as one of the finest in the world. Bryson appreciates its uncluttered interior, free from modern gimmicks, which allows visitors to focus on the beautiful stained glass windows and solid wooden pews.
Another site that impresses Bryson is Stonehenge, the prehistoric monument dating back to 3100 BCE. He marvels at the engineering feat involved in its construction, imagining 600 people moving 50-ton rocks over a distance of 18 miles. He appreciates the respectful way the site is managed, with tourists kept at a distance to preserve the monument's integrity.
London: A City of Wonders
A significant portion of Bryson's book is devoted to London, a city he lived in for eight years and considers the greatest in the world. He is continually amazed by its size and complexity, noting that even after years of residence, there were still countless places he had never heard of or visited.
To illustrate the vastness of London, Bryson refers to the London A-Z street atlas, estimating that it contains over 45,600 street names. Some names are repeated multiple times, like the 21 different Gloucester Roads, while others are delightfully unique, such as Burnfoot Avenue and Droop Street.
But it's not just the size of London that impresses Bryson; it's the richness of its offerings. He rhapsodizes about the city's theaters, museums, opera houses, and old town squares. He also appreciates what he calls the "incidental civilities" of London life – the politeness of drivers towards pedestrians, the tranquil oases like Red Lion Square, the fascinating statues scattered throughout the city, and the famous blue plaques that mark the homes of historical figures.
Bryson has high praise for London's cab drivers, whom he considers the finest in the world. He admires their extensive knowledge of the city's layout, known as "the knowledge," which allows them to navigate London's complex street system without relying on maps or GPS. Their pride in this skill is such that they sometimes struggle to admit when they don't know a particular location.
The London Underground also receives Bryson's admiration. He considers its map, first designed in 1931 and still in use today, a masterpiece of clarity and design. He delights in the eccentric names of some stations, such as Maida Vale, Swiss Cottage, and Chalk Farm, seeing them as quintessentially British.
The Joy of British Travel
While Bryson acknowledges that driving in Britain can be stressful due to parking difficulties, congestion, and roadworks, he finds great pleasure in exploring the country by public transport and on foot.
He praises the British rail system, noting that train service is generally excellent. However, he also points out that years of government neglect have taken their toll. He compares the £5 per person spent on railway infrastructure in Britain in 1995 to the much higher amounts spent in countries like Switzerland (£50) and Germany (£20).
Walking, Bryson discovers, is one of the best ways to experience Britain. He is impressed by the country's extensive network of footpaths, totaling around 120,000 miles. He notes that walking for leisure is something of a British institution, with dedicated hikers equipped with sturdy boots, walking guides, and packed lunches being a common sight on trails across the country.
Bryson recounts his own experiences with British hiking, including a challenging ascent of Bow Fell in the Lake District. Despite the difficult conditions, including an ice storm, he finds himself joining a group of 30 other hikers calmly eating their packed lunches at the foggy summit. It's moments like these, he says, that remind him why he loves Britain so much.
The Beauty and Challenges of the British Landscape
Throughout his journey, Bryson is continually struck by the beauty of the British landscape. Despite the country's small size, he finds an incredible variety of stunning natural scenery. He also observes how deeply intertwined the landscape is with the people who inhabit it.
One anecdote that illustrates this connection is Bryson's encounter with a farmer repairing a stone wall in the pouring rain. When asked why he was bothering to fix a wall that didn't serve as a boundary, the farmer simply replied, "Because it's fallen down, of course!" This attitude, Bryson notes, is typical of how many Britons view their surroundings – as something to be cared for and maintained, regardless of immediate practical benefit.
However, Bryson also expresses concern about the preservation of Britain's natural beauty. He criticizes the government's underfunding of national parks, noting that more money is routinely spent on London's Royal Opera House than on the country's top ten national parks combined. He also laments the defacement of beautiful landscapes by electricity pylons and poorly designed buildings.
The author pays particular attention to the issue of hedgerow preservation. He explains that hedges are not just nostalgic symbols but important historical and ecological features. Some hedgerows, like Judith's Hedge in Cambridgeshire, are over 900 years old. Yet despite their significance, there are no laws protecting them from destruction. Bryson notes with dismay that between 1945 and 1985, 96,000 miles of hedgerow were lost – enough to circle the earth four times. Even after the government stopped incentivizing hedge removal, losses continued, with another 53,000 miles disappearing between 1984 and 2000.
Hidden Gems of the British Countryside
One of the joys Bryson discovers in his travels is the abundance of fascinating spots tucked away in the British countryside. He recommends using the detailed maps produced by Ordnance Survey, Britain's national mapping agency, to uncover these hidden treasures.
One such discovery Bryson makes is the remains of a Roman villa near the town of Winchcombe in the Cotswolds. Following a trail called the Salt Way, he comes across the low walls of the villa, partially hidden by undergrowth. He's particularly impressed by a well-preserved mosaic floor, carefully protected by locals who have placed bags of fertilizer over it. This experience brings home to Bryson the idea that many museum artifacts were once everyday objects, like floors meant to be walked on.
Beyond individual sites, Bryson finds entire regions of breathtaking beauty. He's particularly fond of the Yorkshire Dales, where he eventually settles. He describes the dramatic landscape, with its sudden transitions from steep fells to lush valleys dotted with farms and villages. But what truly endears the area to him are its inhabitants. He recounts an incident where local farmers quickly and efficiently dealt with a car accident outside his house, exemplifying the practical, no-nonsense attitude he admires in the British.
British Manners and Social Norms
A significant portion of Bryson's observations focus on the famous British manners and social norms. He finds that consideration for others is deeply ingrained in the national character, often manifesting in ways that seem peculiar to outsiders.
One of the most striking examples is the British propensity for apology. Bryson notes that apologies are often used to initiate conversations, regardless of who is at fault. He recounts a scene at a hotel where a guest begins his request for assistance with "I'm terribly sorry," despite the fact that he had nothing to apologize for.
Queuing is another area where British manners shine. Bryson marvels at the orderliness of British queues, even in busy locations like train stations. He observes that pushing and shoving are absolutely taboo, with everyone patiently waiting their turn in a single, orderly line.
Despite their adherence to social rules, Bryson finds the British to be generally easygoing. He admires their ability to find pleasure in small things, like a cup of tea and a sweet treat. He also notes their dogged commitment to optimism, illustrated by a couple he saw enjoying themselves on a bitterly cold beach, wrapped in layers but beaming with happiness.
However, Bryson also observes that breaches of etiquette are taken very seriously. He recounts the amusing story of a would-be bank robber who was told to "bugger off" and wait his turn like everyone else when he tried to cut the queue during his heist attempt. The robber, more shamed by his breach of etiquette than his attempted crime, left empty-handed and was promptly arrested.
British Resilience and Cultural Pursuits
Bryson is deeply impressed by the British capacity for self-improvement and cultural pursuits, even in the face of adversity. This is particularly evident in his visit to the former mining village of Ashington and its Woodhorn Colliery Museum.
The museum provides Bryson with a stark picture of the harsh realities of mining life. He learns about the dangerous conditions miners faced, including the employment of young children before 1847. Boys as young as ten worked ten-hour days in pitch-black mining shafts, while "trapper lads" spent their days crouched in darkness, opening and shutting ventilation traps.
Despite these hardships, Ashington developed a thriving cultural life before World War II. The village boasted societies devoted to philosophy, opera, acting, gardening, and cycling, as well as its own theater, ballroom, five cinemas, and a concert hall. Bryson is particularly fascinated by the Ashington Group, a painting society founded in 1934 by miners with no formal artistic training.
The Ashington Group gained national attention in the 1930s and 1940s, with their work featured in touring exhibitions. Despite having little exposure to art before picking up their brushes, these miners produced work that captured the imagination of the art world. Although the group disbanded in 1983 due to rising studio rent, their legacy lives on in the Colliery Museum, serving as a testament to the miners' resilience and creativity.
The Changing Face of Britain
Throughout his journey, Bryson reflects on the changes he's witnessed in Britain over his two decades of residence. He notes both positive developments and areas of concern.
One significant change is the decline of traditional industries, particularly evident in places like Ashington. Bryson observes that the number of coal mines in Britain has drastically reduced, from employing 1.2 million people in the 1920s to just 25,000 by the time of his visit. This shift has had profound effects on many communities, leading to economic challenges and social changes.
Bryson also comments on changes in the British landscape. While he celebrates the preservation of many historical sites and natural areas, he expresses concern about the loss of traditional features like hedgerows and the encroachment of modern development on scenic areas. He criticizes what he sees as short-sighted planning decisions and a lack of government funding for conservation efforts.
In the cities, Bryson notes both improvements and ongoing challenges. He praises the rejuvenation of many urban areas but also points out persistent issues like traffic congestion and the struggle to balance modernization with historical preservation.
Despite these changes, Bryson finds that many aspects of British character remain constant. The politeness, the dry humor, the stoicism in the face of adversity – these qualities, he observes, continue to define the British people.
Bryson's Favorite Places
Throughout the book, Bryson shares his personal favorite spots in Britain. These range from grand cities to tiny villages, from natural wonders to man-made marvels.
Durham holds a special place in Bryson's heart. He considers it one of the finest cities in Britain, with its magnificent cathedral being a particular highlight. He appreciates the way the cathedral is managed, with its lack of entrance fees and gimmicks allowing visitors to fully appreciate its architectural beauty.
The Yorkshire Dales, where Bryson eventually settles, is another favorite. He loves the dramatic landscape with its mix of steep hills and lush valleys. But more than the scenery, it's the character of the local people that endears the area to him.
London, despite (or perhaps because of) its vastness and complexity, remains one of Bryson's top picks. He never tires of exploring its streets, discovering new corners of the city even after years of residence.
In terms of natural beauty, the Lake District makes a strong impression on Bryson. Despite the often challenging weather, he finds the views from its peaks to be among the most beautiful he's ever seen.
Bryson also has a soft spot for quirky, off-the-beaten-path locations. He delights in stumbling upon hidden gems like the Roman villa near Winchcombe or the eccentric place names he encounters throughout his travels.
Reflections on British Identity
As Bryson prepares to leave Britain, he reflects deeply on what makes the country and its people unique. He finds that British identity is a complex mix of history, geography, and shared cultural experiences.
One aspect that stands out to Bryson is the British sense of humor. He admires their ability to find amusement in everyday situations and their tendency towards self-deprecation. This humor, he observes, often helps the British cope with challenges and maintain their famous "stiff upper lip."
The British relationship with their history also fascinates Bryson. He notes how the past is ever-present in Britain, from ancient monuments like Stonehenge to the countless historical buildings in every town and village. Yet he also observes that this history is often taken for granted, leading to a sometimes cavalier attitude towards preservation.
Bryson is impressed by the British capacity for civility and order, as exemplified by their queuing habits and polite social norms. At the same time, he appreciates their occasional bouts of eccentricity and their tolerance for individual quirks.
The author also reflects on the British relationship with nature. Despite being a heavily urbanized country, Britain maintains a strong connection to its countryside. Bryson admires the extensive network of footpaths and the national passion for walking and gardening.
Finally, Bryson considers the British ability to adapt and persevere. From the miners of Ashington who formed an art group to the people he encounters making the best of a rainy day at the beach, he sees a resilience and optimism that he finds admirable.
Final Thoughts
As Bryson concludes his farewell tour of Britain, he finds himself more in love with the country than ever. Despite the changes he's witnessed and the challenges the country faces, he remains captivated by its unique charm and character.
He appreciates the way Britain manages to be both familiar and surprising, how it balances tradition with innovation, and how it maintains its distinct identity in an increasingly globalized world. Bryson admires the British ability to find joy in simple pleasures, their respect for civility and fair play, and their capacity for self-deprecating humor.
The author acknowledges that Britain isn't perfect. He points out areas where improvement is needed, particularly in terms of preserving the country's natural and historical heritage. However, these criticisms come from a place of deep affection – Bryson clearly wants the best for his adopted home.
Ultimately, "Notes from a Small Island" is a celebration of Britain in all its quirky, complex glory. Through Bryson's eyes, readers gain a fresh perspective on a country that may seem familiar but is full of surprises. His keen observations, witty commentary, and genuine fondness for Britain and its people make for a delightful and insightful journey.
As Bryson prepares to leave, he reflects on how Britain has shaped him and how it will always hold a special place in his heart. He may be returning to America, but a part of him will always belong to this small island that has given him so much. His parting message is clear: Britain, with all its foibles and charms, is a truly remarkable place, worthy of love, respect, and careful stewardship.
For readers, whether they're familiar with Britain or not, Bryson's book offers a unique and engaging portrait of a country that continues to fascinate and influence the world. It's an invitation to look beyond the stereotypes and discover the real Britain – a land of contrast and contradiction, of tradition and innovation, of natural beauty and human achievement. Above all, it's a reminder that sometimes the most extraordinary discoveries can be made in the most familiar of places.