Book cover of River of the Gods by Candice Millard

Candice Millard

River of the Gods Summary

Reading time icon17 min readRating icon3.8 (14,525 ratings)

Is it easier to find the source of the Nile or to understand the minds of the explorers driven to discover it?

1. The Nile: A Puzzle for the Ages

The River Nile, one of Earth's most storied rivers, has fueled civilizations for millennia. It inspired curiosity among Europeans who could not determine its source for centuries. This obsession, rooted in exploration and a sense of superiority, cemented the quest as the greatest geographical mystery of the 19th century.

Despite being famed for its ancient history, no one knew where this extensive river began. Ancient figures like Herodotus and Roman emperors tried to locate its origin, facing consistent futility. The White Nile, a primary tributary, eluded explorers most due to its tangled tributaries and the unnavigable Sudd swamp.

By 1830, the Royal Geographical Society was formed, determined to find capable individuals willing to undertake the perilous journey overland through East Africa. Explorers needed physical stamina, knowledge of multiple skills, and an understanding of East African languages and customs. Richard Burton emerged as a daring contender for this task.

Examples

  • Roman emperors failed in their expeditions to trace the Nile's origin.
  • Herodotus speculated wildly about the river’s source, guessing at mythical “Mountains of the Moon.”
  • The Sudd swamp rendered upstream navigation nearly impossible.

2. Richard Burton: A Man of Singular Talent

Richard Burton was brilliantly unique, armed with intellect, ambition, and a profound respect for foreign cultures, which alienated him in Victorian England. With an insatiable thirst for knowledge, Burton mastered languages, sciences, and the art of exploration.

Burton’s accomplishments were staggering. By the end of his life, he knew 25 languages, many studied in-depth with published works. A consummate writer and linguist, Burton possessed unmatched physical and mental tenacity. His relentless learning and curiosity about local cultures made him a remarkable choice to lead expeditions for the Royal Geographical Society.

His first major challenge was in Somaliland, where his innovative methods – including blending into local communities by adopting their mannerisms – demonstrated his adaptive skill set. However, these very attributes made him an outsider not just among Victorians but even within his own expedition team.

Examples

  • Burton mastered Hindustani in six months, earning top placement in army linguistic exams.
  • He disguised himself as a Muslim to infiltrate Mecca, learning Arabic in the process.
  • His writings covered grammar systems and cultural ethnography, establishing him as a scholar as well as an explorer.

3. Speke and Burton: A Tumultuous Partnership

Burton’s partnership with John Speke, one of his deputies, was marked by tension rooted in contrasting personalities. Burton was scholarly, eccentric, and deeply curious about the cultures he encountered. Speke, by contrast, leaned on discipline, physical endurance, and his sense of masculine prowess.

The first expedition highlighted their differences. While Burton relied on prepared diplomacy and scientific expertise, Speke often clashed with his lack of interest in local customs and his eagerness for experiential achievements like hunting exotic animals. The two, though oddly matched, ended up tethered to a shared goal out of necessity rather than camaraderie.

Their dynamic soured further during the Somaliland disaster, where Burton and Speke narrowly escaped death. Speke harbored great resentment over how Burton described him afterward, which Speke viewed as dismissive and belittling, fueling a rivalry that would evolve into a public feud.

Examples

  • Burton hand-picked Speke as a deputy after another candidate unexpectedly died.
  • During an ambush in Somaliland, Speke was captured and tortured while Burton narrowly survived impalement.
  • Burton’s writings about the failed Somaliland expedition insinuated Speke’s ignorance of Islamic religion, infuriating him.

4. The Challenges of Exploring East Africa

Unforgiving landscapes, limited resources, and external threats created near-insurmountable obstacles for Burton and Speke’s expeditions. Challenges ranged from climate extremes and disease to unpredictable local resistance.

Almost immediately, they faced setbacks. Porters abandoned the mission regularly out of fear, and the lack of proper support meant prolonged suffering. Monsoon rains, relentless heat, dense foliage, and severe insects compounded their difficulties. Even when they finally gained local help, the sense of camaraderie between the two explorers began to deteriorate under the pressures of the mission.

These conditions amplified the physical toll on both men and everyone involved. From paralysis to near-starvation and fever, the sheer physical destruction endured by Burton and Speke made their expeditions a testament to their survival instincts, if not outright success.

Examples

  • In Somaliland, a savage raid left Burton speared and Speke badly injured before the real journey could even begin.
  • Supplies meant for two years barely lasted a fraction of the time, leaving the expedition to hunt ants and vermin for food.
  • Disease left Burton paralyzed for almost a year, forcing him to be carried across treacherous routes.

5. The Shared Quest for "Inland Seas"

The search for “inland seas” dominated Burton and Speke's expeditions, and both men gambled their reputations on finding what modern readers know as Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria. Despite cooperation, their individual drive to discover the source of the White Nile caused friction.

Initially focusing on Lake Tanganyika, their group suffered immense setbacks before even reaching it – exhaustion, starvation, and dwindling supplies threatened to thwart progress. When they did reach it, Burton’s failing health allowed Speke to break off, launching a solo quest to a mysterious lake he named after Queen Victoria.

Speke’s claim that Lake Victoria was definitively the Nile’s source sowed the seeds of deeper division. For Burton, Speke’s hurried announcement lacked thorough evidence. For Speke, it was proof he had triumphed where Burton failed.

Examples

  • Lake Tanganyika was reached after eight grueling months, with the party openly starving.
  • Speke embarked alone to Ujiji but turned back due to a shortage of supplies.
  • Speke’s christening of Lake Victoria ignored existing local names, emblematic of colonial arrogance.

6. Rivalry Reaches a Breaking Point

Upon returning to London, Speke and Burton became outright enemies. Speke’s resentment boiled over after Burton’s criticisms of his qualifications surfaced. Speke claimed sole credit for solving the Nile mystery, while Burton argued that no definitive conclusion had been reached.

The feud spilled into public forums and damaged relationships on both sides. Speke, emboldened, maneuvered politically to secure leadership of the next expedition, leaving Burton sidelined. Unfortunately, Speke’s methods and measurements drew scrutiny, tarnishing the meticulous reputation Burton brought to his earlier trials.

The animosity culminated in a much-anticipated debate scheduled for 1864. Yet Speke’s apparent accidental death overshadowed the affair, leaving as many personal mysteries as geographic ones.

Examples

  • Speke’s elevation as leader for subsequent expeditions angered many in Burton’s corner.
  • The rushed nature of Speke’s findings cast doubt on his scientific integrity.
  • Speke’s death, officially deemed accidental, remains shrouded in speculation.

7. The Endless Cost of Exploration

The search for the Nile’s source ravaged bodies, minds, and spirits. Burton, Speke, and countless others gave years of their lives, braving extreme environments and facing debilitating sickness.

Europe’s territorial and knowledge-hungry period saw explorers plunge into unknown lands armed with hubris. Native communities faced exploitation, and expedition workers were underpaid. Many porters and guides who enabled these journeys remained unrecognized, framed as consequential only to the “heroic” European adventurers.

Even for the victors, success was not without consequence. Burton’s physical health never fully recovered, and his life's work was overshadowed. Speke reached the apex of fame, only to tumble amid accusations and isolation.

Examples

  • Burton struggled with financial trouble after retiring from active exploration.
  • Speke’s once-loyal scientific allies turned against him due to botched conclusions.
  • Indigenous workers, critical to every expedition, faced little acknowledgment for their efforts.

8. Colonial Intrusion Disguised as Curiosity

Though presented as high-minded curiosity, the colonial backdrop of discovering the Nile reveals a darker narrative. The need to "claim" lakes and territories echoed Europe’s broader exploitative practices.

Burton’s deep respect for foreign cultures stood in stark contrast to Speke’s disregard, seen in his urge to export British names onto African landmarks. These efforts not only diminished indigenous contributions but also perpetuated colonial attitudes of ownership and dominance.

The use of local workers offering their skills under often exploitative arrangements highlights how instrumental – yet diminished – their role was in achieving European ambitions.

Examples

  • The naming of Lake Victoria disregarded native terminologies and claims.
  • Expedition economies depended entirely on foreign laborers who bore the brunt of hardship.
  • The Royal Geographical Society’s goals reflected colonial conquest as much as cartographic interest.

9. The End of an Era

The discovery of Lake Victoria as the Nile’s source marked the conclusion of a centuries-long puzzle. The geographical achievements were tempered by personal tragedies and a legacy of exploitation.

Speke's later downfall illustrates the fickle nature of fame, while Burton’s withdrawal underscores the toll exploration took on his spirit. Ultimately, both represent two halves of a conflicted story: the liberating thirst for knowledge and the dark shadow of colonialism.

Meanwhile, the communities around the White Nile faced lasting disruptions, their contributions often erased in favor of narratives celebrating European daring.

Examples

  • Speke’s fame crumbled under scrutiny and public alienation.
  • Burton turned to writing but was often overshadowed by financial woes.
  • Native communities were excluded from the eventual acknowledgment of the Nile’s discovery.

Takeaways

  1. Cultivate resilience: Success often requires enduring hardships, as Burton and Speke proved on their grueling expeditions.
  2. Acknowledge contributors: Achievements are rarely solo endeavors, and recognizing every effort builds a fuller, honest legacy.
  3. Balance ambition with ethics: Pursuing goals shouldn't come at the exploitation of others or the erasure of cultures.

Books like River of the Gods