The Salt Path

"The Salt Path" by Raynor Winn is a moving memoir about loss, resilience, and finding hope in the most unlikely of places. The book tells the true story of Raynor Winn and her husband Moth, who in their 50s suddenly found themselves homeless and facing a terminal illness diagnosis. With nothing left to lose, they made the bold decision to walk the 630-mile South West Coast Path in England, wild camping along the way.

This inspiring tale chronicles their journey as they battled the elements, poverty, and health challenges while rediscovering their bond as a couple and gaining a new perspective on life. Through vivid descriptions of the stunning coastline and poignant reflections on their situation, Winn crafts a beautiful narrative about the healing power of nature and the strength of the human spirit in the face of adversity.

Losing Everything

A Double Tragedy Strikes

In 2013, Raynor Winn and her husband Moth faced two devastating blows in quick succession that completely upended their lives. First, they received the crushing news that they would be evicted from their beloved home - a Welsh farmhouse where they had lived for decades and raised their children. This wasn't just the loss of their home, but also their livelihood, as they had been renting out rooms to tourists as their main source of income.

The eviction came as the result of a failed investment in a friend's company. When the company went under, the friend came after Ray and Moth for money they didn't have and didn't believe they owed. The dispute escalated into a legal battle that drained all of their savings on lawyer fees. Forced to represent themselves in court against a professional legal team, they stood no chance. The judge ruled against them, leaving them with no choice but to give up their home.

Just days after receiving this crushing blow, they were hit with another - Moth was diagnosed with a rare terminal illness called corticobasal degeneration (CBD). This degenerative brain condition meant Moth would gradually lose control of his body and mind over the next 6-8 years. The doctor said Moth's case seemed to be progressing slowly, but it was still essentially a death sentence.

In an instant, Ray and Moth had lost everything - their home, their source of income, their plans for the future, and even the promise of growing old together. They were in their 50s and suddenly found themselves homeless, nearly penniless, and facing a terminal diagnosis. Their entire world had been turned upside down.

An Impulsive Decision

Reeling from these twin tragedies, Ray and Moth were at a complete loss for what to do next. They had no home, no money, and no long-term plan. It was in this moment of desperation that Ray stumbled upon an idea that would change the course of their lives.

As they were crouching under the stairs, hiding from the bailiffs who had come to evict them, Ray noticed a book in one of their packing boxes - "Five Hundred Mile Walkies" by a man who had walked his dog along the entire South West Coast Path. Something about this sparked Ray's imagination.

The South West Coast Path is a 630-mile trail that stretches from Minehead in Somerset, along the coasts of Devon and Cornwall, to Poole in Dorset. On a whim, Ray suggested to Moth that they should walk the path themselves. With nothing left to lose, Moth agreed.

It was an impulsive and seemingly irrational decision. They had no proper equipment, barely any money, and Moth was battling a degenerative illness. But in that moment, the path represented hope - a way forward when all other doors seemed closed. They still had each other, and now they had a goal. Walking the path would give them purpose and direction when their lives had been thrown into chaos.

This spontaneous choice to become nomadic hikers was born out of desperation, but it would ultimately lead them on a transformative journey of self-discovery, healing, and renewed hope for the future.

Preparing for the Journey

Scraping Together Supplies on a Shoestring Budget

With only £320 left in their bank account and a meager weekly income of £48 from Moth's disability payments, Ray and Moth faced significant challenges in preparing for their ambitious coastal hike. They needed proper equipment but had an extremely limited budget to work with.

By sheer luck, they managed to win an eBay auction for a lightweight tent that would be suitable for backpacking. This was a crucial piece of gear that they otherwise may not have been able to afford. For the rest of their supplies, they had to be creative and frugal, carefully considering each purchase.

Their search for a suitable guidebook proved more complicated than expected. They discovered that all the available guides were written for hikers walking the path from east to west - from Minehead to Poole. Ray and Moth had been hoping to go in the opposite direction, starting in Poole, because the stretch around Minehead was known to be particularly strenuous. They worried that beginning with the most difficult section might force them to give up before they'd truly begun.

With no other options, they reluctantly chose Paddy Dillon's waterproof guidebook "The South West Coast Path" as their trail bible, resigning themselves to tackling the path in the standard direction. This guidebook would become an essential companion on their journey, even if they'd be reading the sections in reverse of their intended order.

An Inauspicious Start

Getting to the trailhead in Minehead turned out to be more challenging than Ray and Moth anticipated. On their way there, they made a detour through the eccentric town of Glastonbury, known for its New Age and alternative scene. Hoping to gain strength for the journey ahead, they attended a "healing" session that involved sampling a concoction called "breath of heaven."

Unfortunately, whatever was in this mystical brew did not agree with Moth. His back pain flared up intensely, forcing them to spend nearly two weeks recuperating on the floor of a friend's house in nearby Taunton. This setback was a harsh reminder of how fragile Moth's health was and how unpredictable their journey might be.

Despite this discouraging start, Ray and Moth were determined to press on. They had come too far and had no other options to turn back to. Once Moth recovered enough to travel, they took their first real steps as homeless wanderers, boarding a bus from Taunton to Minehead.

Paying £10 each for the bus tickets was a significant expense given their limited funds, but it was a necessary investment to reach the official starting point of their trek. As they stepped off the bus in Minehead, the enormity of what lay ahead finally sank in. They were now truly homeless, with nothing but a long coastal path stretching out before them into an uncertain future.

This inauspicious beginning highlighted the precariousness of their situation and the many challenges they would face. But it also underscored their resilience and determination to forge ahead despite setbacks. With no home to return to, the path was now their only way forward.

Life on the Trail

A Range of Reactions from Fellow Travelers

As Ray and Moth made their way along the coastal path, they encountered a diverse cast of characters and experienced a wide range of reactions to their situation. Their interactions with others revealed both the kindness of strangers and the stigma attached to homelessness.

On their very first day, they met a group of boisterous American tourists who provided a stark contrast to their own situation. These well-heeled travelers were having their luggage transported for them, while Ray and Moth carried everything they owned on their backs.

It was during a conversation with a friendly family in a cafe on their second day that Ray and Moth first realized the stigma they would face. When Ray candidly mentioned that they were homeless, the man's demeanor instantly changed. He pulled his child close, quickly paid, and hurried out the door. This reaction took Ray by surprise and taught them to be more cautious about revealing the full truth of their circumstances.

Not everyone they met was unfriendly, however. They encountered many kind souls along the way:

• An Australian bartender who let them warm up by his fire after a rainy day
• Retired women who helpfully directed Moth to an ATM
• A group of soldiers who gave them a lift out of a restricted area they had accidentally wandered into
• A man named Grant who found them exhausted by the heat and invited them back to his farmhouse for a generous meal

They also faced some recurring themes in their interactions:

• Many people commented on their age, seeming shocked that people in their 50s would undertake such a journey
• Others expressed envy at the amount of free time they had, not realizing it was born of necessity rather than luxury
• People kept mistakenly calling Moth "Simon" or "Mr. Armitage" for reasons that weren't initially clear

One particularly meaningful encounter was with a group of surfers living in wooden sheds for the summer. Ray and Moth felt comfortable enough to share their full story with these laid-back strangers. One surfer was visibly moved, saying simply "Fuck." He then shared a philosophical perspective, comparing life's challenges to waves - the longer the "fetch" (the distance the wind has blown), the bigger the wave. He suggested that Ray and Moth were experiencing a long fetch, but would eventually ride an incredible wave.

This surfer's words resonated deeply with Ray and Moth, providing a new way of framing their struggles. That night, buoyed by this perspective and the surfers' warm welcome, they danced late into the night - even Moth, despite his physical limitations.

These varied interactions highlighted the complex reality of being homeless. While they faced judgment and misunderstanding from some, they also experienced profound moments of connection and kindness that helped sustain them on their journey.

The Unexpected Effects on Moth's Health

One of the most surprising developments of their coastal trek was the impact it had on Moth's health. Given his terminal diagnosis of corticobasal degeneration (CBD), one might have expected the physical demands of the journey to worsen his condition. Instead, the opposite seemed to occur.

Their daily routine was grueling:

• Wild camping most nights, which often meant uncomfortable sleep
• A meager diet of mostly noodles, chocolate bars, and wine gums
• Long days of hiking along steep coastal paths
• Dealing with intense summer heat
• Moth had even been forced to quit his pain medication cold turkey after forgetting his second box

By all logic, these challenging conditions should have been detrimental to Moth's health. In the early days, he would wake up in extreme pain each morning. But as they continued walking, something unexpected happened - Moth began to feel better.

As the miles passed, Moth regained strength and experienced less pain. By the time they reached St. Ives, 232 miles into their journey, Moth felt well enough to give an impromptu dramatic reading of Beowulf, entertaining a crowd and earning them some much-needed money.

This improvement in Moth's condition was baffling to both of them. They couldn't explain why the constant physical exertion and sparse diet seemed to be having a positive effect when it should have been detrimental. It defied the grim prognosis they had been given and gave them a renewed sense of hope.

The mystery of Moth's improving health became a source of cautious optimism for the couple. While they didn't understand the mechanism behind it, they were grateful for this unexpected turn of events. It allowed them to continue their journey with greater ease and challenged their assumptions about the inevitable progression of Moth's illness.

This surprising development underscored a central theme of their journey - that sometimes the most unlikely circumstances can lead to positive change and that the human body and spirit are capable of remarkable resilience.

The Challenges of Wild Camping

A significant aspect of Ray and Moth's journey was their reliance on wild camping to keep costs down. This practice of camping outside of designated campsites is technically illegal in most of England, adding an extra layer of difficulty to their already challenging situation.

Wild camping required careful planning and discretion:

• They had to find spots that were relatively flat and free of rocks or bushes
• The location needed to be hidden from the main path to avoid detection
• They had to be mindful of private property and restricted areas
• Setting up and breaking down camp needed to be done quickly and quietly

Despite their best efforts, they didn't always manage to find ideal spots. Some nights were spent on uncomfortable terrain, leading to restless sleep and aching bodies in the morning. The constant worry of being discovered or asked to move on added to their stress.

Their camping routine became a carefully choreographed dance:

1. Scouting for a suitable location as evening approached
2. Quickly setting up the tent and crawling inside
3. Preparing a simple meal on their portable stove
4. Packing everything away in the early morning before other hikers appeared

This lifestyle required constant vigilance and adaptability. They became adept at reading the landscape and finding hidden nooks where they could spend the night undisturbed. However, it also meant they were at the mercy of the elements, with no solid shelter to retreat to in case of severe weather.

While wild camping allowed them to stretch their meager funds, it came with significant hardships. The lack of basic amenities like running water and toilets meant maintaining hygiene was a constant challenge. They had to carefully ration their water and rely on public facilities when available.

Despite these difficulties, wild camping also offered moments of profound beauty and connection with nature. Falling asleep to the sound of crashing waves or waking up to stunning coastal vistas provided a sense of freedom and wonder that helped balance out the hardships.

The experience of wild camping became a metaphor for their larger journey - requiring resilience, ingenuity, and a willingness to live on the fringes of society. It taught them valuable lessons about simplicity, resourcefulness, and finding joy in small comforts.

Turning Points

A Lifeline for the Winter

As autumn set in, Ray and Moth faced a difficult decision. They had reached Land's End by mid-September, but still had a significant portion of the path ahead of them. The colder weather was making their journey increasingly challenging, and they knew continuing through winter would be dangerous.

Just as they were grappling with this dilemma, they received an unexpected phone call from Ray's friend Polly. She offered them a place to stay for the winter - a shed she was in the process of converting into a living space. The catch was that Ray and Moth would need to complete the conversion work themselves.

This offer came as a mixed blessing. On one hand, it provided them with much-needed shelter for the harsh winter months. On the other hand, it meant pausing their journey and leaving the path that had become their home and purpose.

Reluctantly but pragmatically, they accepted Polly's offer. The work of converting the shed proved challenging, especially for Moth. Unlike the constant movement of their coastal walk, the repetitive physical labor of construction caused his pain to return in full force. He found himself sleeping for 12 hours each night and waking in agony.

Meanwhile, Ray began looking for paid work to supplement their meager income. When spring arrived, she found a job on a nearby farm as a "wrapper" - collecting and wrapping fleeces after sheep shearing. Her farming background made her well-suited for this work.

While grateful for Polly's generosity, their stay was not without complications. They learned that Polly intended to rent out the converted shed once they left, which meant their tenure there was limited. Once again, they found themselves facing an uncertain future.

This interlude provided them with temporary stability but also forced them to confront the realities they had been walking away from. It became clear that they needed a more sustainable long-term plan.

A New Plan Emerges

As their time in Polly's shed drew to a close, Moth came up with an ambitious idea for their future. Instead of assuming the worst about his condition, he decided to become a student. His plan was to enroll at Plymouth University to obtain a degree, then train as a teacher. This would not only give him a new purpose but also provide them with access to student housing.

This plan represented a dramatic shift in their outlook. Rather than continuing to live day-to-day, they were now looking towards building a future. It was a testament to Moth's resilience and determination in the face of his diagnosis.

To their relief and excitement, Moth's application to Plymouth University was accepted. He would receive a student loan, which would provide them with a modest but stable income. However, classes wouldn't begin until late September, leaving them with a gap of more than two months.

With renewed hope and a concrete plan for the future, they made the decision to return to the coastal path. They had 250 miles left to complete - from Polruan in the west to Poole in the east. This time, they chose to begin in Poole and head west, finishing where they had stopped the previous year.

Their approach to this second phase of their journey was markedly different:

• They had more confidence in their abilities and knowledge of the path
• With a small amount of money saved, they were able to upgrade some of their equipment
• They discarded unnecessary items, streamlining their packs
• They read Paddy Dillon's guidebook backward, adapting to their reversed route

This return to the path was both a completion of their original journey and a bridge to their new future. It allowed them to honor the transformative experience they had undergone while moving towards the next chapter of their lives.

The decision to return to their walk demonstrated their deep connection to the path and the personal growth they had experienced. It also showed their determination to finish what they had started, even as they prepared for a new beginning.

Lessons and Revelations

The Other Side of Homelessness

While Ray and Moth had been technically homeless throughout their journey, their experience of wild camping along a beautiful coastline was vastly different from urban homelessness. This distinction became starkly clear during an unplanned night on the streets of Plymouth.

Unable to catch the last ferry to their intended camping spot, Ray and Moth found themselves stranded in the city with nowhere to sleep. For the first time, they faced the harsh reality of spending a night out in the cold in an urban environment.

This experience opened their eyes to the daily struggles of those living on the streets:

• They spent hours simply walking around to kill time and stay warm
• They became acutely aware of other homeless individuals they passed
• They faced the challenge of finding a safe place to rest without a tent for shelter
• They witnessed the territorial nature of some street dwellers and the potential for conflict

During this night, they had meaningful encounters with two homeless men:

1. Colin - a formerly married father who had lost everything. It was his birthday, and he shared beer with Ray and Moth, showing that generosity can exist even in dire circumstances.
2. Dean - a more aggressive individual who seemed threatened by Ray and Moth's presence in "his" area, forcing them to move on.

This experience gave Ray and Moth a new perspective on homelessness. They realized that while their situation was difficult, they had advantages that many street homeless did not:

• The ability to move freely and choose their location
• Access to natural environments that provided beauty and solace
• A sense of purpose in their journey
• The companionship and support of each other

The next morning, they were relieved to find £30 in their bank account, allowing them to buy food and move on. This small financial cushion highlighted another key difference in their situation compared to many urban homeless.

Moth's gesture of buying a sausage sandwich for Colin, whose face now showed signs of a beating, demonstrated their empathy and newfound understanding of the harsh realities faced by those living on the streets.

This night in Plymouth served as a powerful reminder of their relative privilege even in their homeless state. It deepened their compassion for others in similar situations and reinforced their gratitude for the path they had chosen, difficult as it was.

The Healing Power of Nature

One of the most profound revelations of Ray and Moth's journey was the unexpected positive impact it had on Moth's health. Despite his terminal diagnosis and the physical demands of their trek, Moth experienced significant improvements in his condition as they walked.

Several factors seemed to contribute to this surprising turn:

1. Constant Movement: The daily rhythm of walking appeared to have a beneficial effect on Moth's muscles and joints, keeping them active and flexible.
2. Connection with Nature: Immersion in natural environments, breathing fresh air, and experiencing the beauty of the coastline seemed to have a rejuvenating effect on both body and spirit.
3. Purposeful Activity: Having a clear goal and making daily progress towards it provided a sense of meaning and motivation that may have had psychological and physiological benefits.
4. Simplified Lifestyle: The stripped-down existence of life on the trail, free from many modern stressors, possibly allowed Moth's body to focus on healing.
5. Dietary Changes: While their diet was sparse, the shift to simple foods and regular physical activity may have had positive effects on Moth's overall health.

The improvement in Moth's condition defied medical expectations and provided a powerful testament to the body's capacity for resilience and self-healing. It challenged their assumptions about the inevitable progression of his illness and offered hope for a future they had thought was foreclosed.

This experience highlighted the potential therapeutic effects of extended time in nature and regular physical activity. While not a cure, it suggested that lifestyle factors could play a significant role in managing even serious health conditions.

The healing they found on the path went beyond the physical. The journey also provided emotional and psychological healing:

• It allowed them to process the trauma of losing their home and livelihood
• It strengthened their bond as a couple as they faced challenges together
• It gave them a new perspective on what was truly important in life
• It helped them rediscover their own strength and resilience

The coastal path became more than just a trail - it was a path to healing, self-discovery, and renewed hope. This transformative power of nature and pilgrimage became one of the central themes of their story, offering inspiration to others facing seemingly insurmountable challenges.

The Journey's End

An Unexpected Offer

As Ray and Moth neared the end of their coastal odyssey, fate intervened in an unexpected way. Sitting on a bench in Talland Bay, enjoying a rare cup of tea, they struck up a conversation with a woman whose car had broken down nearby. Her name was Anna, and unlike many others they had encountered, she reacted with empathy and interest when they explained their homeless situation.

Anna listened intently to their entire story, expressing particular admiration for Moth's decision to pursue university studies despite his health challenges. Then, in a moment of serendipity that seemed almost too good to be true, Anna made them an offer that would change everything.

It turned out that Anna owned an apartment in Polruan, right on the coastal path. Her current tenants were moving out the very next day, and she spontaneously offered the place to Ray and Moth. This generous proposal came at the perfect moment - they were at the exact spot where they had left the trail the previous year, the point they had been working their way back to.

The symbolism was powerful. Just as they completed their circular journey, coming back to where they had paused before, a new door quite literally opened for them. It was as if the path itself was providing them with the means to transition back into a more settled life.

Ray and Moth celebrated this stroke of good fortune by dancing in the cafe and treating themselves to a rare visit to a local pub. They spent one final night in their trusty tent, reflecting on the incredible journey that had brought them to this point.

A New Chapter Begins

Moving into Anna's apartment marked the beginning of a new chapter for Ray and Moth. After months of homelessness and uncertainty, they suddenly had a stable roof over their heads. More significantly, their new home was located right on the coastal path that had been their lifeline and transformative journey.

This positioning was deeply meaningful. It allowed them to maintain their connection to the path that had changed their lives while beginning to rebuild a more conventional existence. They could look out at the sea that had been their constant companion and draw strength from those memories as they faced new challenges.

The transition wasn't without its complexities:

• They would need to adjust to living indoors again after so long in the wild
• Paying rent on a student loan would be financially challenging
• Moth would have to truly confront his health condition now that they weren't constantly moving
• They faced the task of rebuilding their lives with very few resources

However, they approached these challenges with the resilience and perspective they had gained on their journey. Their experiences had taught them to appreciate simple comforts and to face difficulties head-on.

As they sat on a bench gazing out to sea from their new home, a peregrine falcon swooped by overhead - a mirror image of a moment they had experienced a year earlier when leaving the trail. This seemed to symbolize the circular nature of their journey and the continuity between their past experiences and their new beginning.

Reflections on the Journey

Looking back on their time on the South West Coast Path, Ray and Moth recognized that while homelessness had been an incredibly challenging experience, it had also been transformative in ways they could never have anticipated.

Key takeaways from their journey included:

1. The strength of their relationship: Facing extreme adversity together had deepened their bond and reaffirmed their commitment to each other.
2. The healing power of nature: The positive effects on Moth's health demonstrated the profound impact that connection with the natural world can have.
3. The kindness of strangers: Throughout their journey, they encountered individuals whose generosity and compassion restored their faith in humanity.
4. The value of simplicity: Living with only what they could carry taught them to appreciate life's basic necessities and find joy in small pleasures.
5. Their own resilience: They discovered inner strength and adaptability they didn't know they possessed.
6. A new perspective on homelessness: Their experiences gave them deep empathy for others facing housing insecurity and a nuanced understanding of the issue.
7. The importance of purpose: Having a goal, even in the direst circumstances, provided them with motivation and hope.

While they wouldn't describe homelessness as a positive experience overall, they recognized that making something meaningful out of their difficult situation was a testament to their determination and spirit. The journey had been incredibly tough, often dangerous, and frequently demoralizing. But through their own perseverance and some strokes of good fortune, they had managed to use it as a springboard to rebuild their lives.

Conclusion

"The Salt Path" is ultimately a story of resilience, love, and the transformative power of nature. Ray and Moth's journey along the South West Coast Path was born out of desperation, but it became a pilgrimage that changed them profoundly.

Their story challenges conventional notions of homelessness, illness, and aging. It demonstrates that even in the darkest times, it's possible to find meaning, purpose, and even moments of joy. The couple's willingness to embrace uncertainty and face each day's challenges head-on is truly inspiring.

As they settled into their new home in Polruan, Ray and Moth faced an uncertain future. Living off a student loan while paying rent would be challenging, and Moth still had to confront the reality of his medical condition. However, they approached these obstacles with newfound strength and perspective.

The most valuable thing they carried with them from the coastal path was not any physical possession, but their unshakeable bond. Their journey had proven that together, they could weather any storm life might throw their way.

"The Salt Path" serves as a powerful reminder of the resilience of the human spirit and the healing power of nature. It encourages readers to look at adversity as an opportunity for growth and to find beauty and meaning even in the most difficult circumstances. Ray and Moth's story is a testament to the idea that sometimes, when we lose everything, we find what truly matters.