To Dye For

In her eye-opening book "To Dye For," author Alden Wicker pulls back the curtain on the hidden dangers lurking in our closets. Through meticulous research and compelling storytelling, Wicker reveals how the clothes we wear every day may be slowly poisoning us and the environment. This alarming exposé sheds light on the chemical-laden world of textile manufacturing and its far-reaching consequences for human health and the planet.

Introduction: The Hidden Dangers in Our Closets

We all love the feeling of slipping on a new outfit. The crisp fabric, vibrant colors, and perfect fit can boost our confidence and mood. But what if that new shirt or pair of jeans was actually harming your health? What if the very clothes meant to protect and adorn us were secretly exposing us to a cocktail of toxic chemicals?

This is the unsettling reality that Alden Wicker uncovers in "To Dye For." Through extensive research and interviews, Wicker reveals how the fashion industry's reliance on hazardous chemicals is creating a silent epidemic of health issues. From fertility problems to autoimmune diseases, the impacts of toxic clothing are far more severe and widespread than most of us realize.

Wicker's investigation takes readers on a global journey, from the runways of New York to the textile factories of India. Along the way, she exposes the dark underbelly of fast fashion and challenges us to reconsider our relationship with clothing. "To Dye For" is both a wake-up call and a call to action, empowering consumers with knowledge while pushing for much-needed reforms in the fashion industry.

The Canaries in the Coal Mine: Airline Uniforms Gone Wrong

Wicker begins her exploration with a shocking case study that serves as a stark warning of clothing's toxic potential. In 2011, Alaska Airlines issued new uniforms to its flight attendants. What should have been a routine uniform change turned into a health nightmare for hundreds of employees.

Mary's Story: A Descent into Illness

Mary, an Alaska Airlines flight attendant, initially dismissed her colleagues' complaints about the new uniforms. She thought they were simply resistant to change. But soon, Mary herself began experiencing alarming symptoms:

• Severe coughing fits
• Burning rashes across her skin
• Debilitating migraines
• Stuttering and memory loss
• Red, crusty eyes

As time went on, Mary's condition only worsened. Yet the airline denied any connection between the uniforms and the health issues plaguing its staff.

John's Ordeal: From the Sky to the ER

Mary's coworker John suffered an even more dramatic reaction. Shortly after donning the new uniform, John ended up in the emergency room with severely compromised breathing. His second ER visit was even more alarming – he was covered in bloody, oozing lesions from his upper back to his ears.

The Toxic Truth Revealed

It eventually came to light that the new uniforms contained a toxic mixture of flame retardants and Teflon coatings. One particularly concerning chemical was tributyl phosphate (TBP), which had been intentionally added as a wetting agent and solvent.

The airline's response was woefully inadequate. They offered attendants a small sum for dry cleaning, which wouldn't actually remove the TBP. They also dismissed the widespread health issues as "individual sensitivities."

A Widespread Problem

The Alaska Airlines case was far from isolated. Between 2011 and 2017, thousands of flight attendants across major airlines including American, Southwest, and Delta reported similar acute health issues related to toxic uniforms.

Why Flight Attendants are the Perfect Test Case

Wicker explains why these airline uniform cases are so significant:

1. Controlled population: Flight attendants wear identical uniforms daily, making it easier to identify clothing-related health issues.
2. Simultaneous adoption: When uniforms change, everyone switches at once, creating a clear before-and-after picture.
3. High exposure: Long hours in confined spaces increase chemical exposure from uniforms.

The General Population: A Harder Connection to Make

While flight attendants' experiences provide clear evidence of clothing toxicity, the average person's exposure is harder to track. We wear a variety of clothes each day, making it difficult to pinpoint the source of any health issues that may arise.

Children: Even More Vulnerable

Wicker highlights how children may be at even greater risk from toxic clothing:

• They spend more time crawling on the ground
• They're more likely to put their hands in their mouths
• Their developing bodies are more susceptible to chemical disruption

The author shares the story of nurse Karly Hiser, whose young son suffered from severe eczema. Only when Karly made him organic cotton underwear did his condition improve, suggesting a link between his skin issues and chemical-laden clothing.

The Dust Connection

A particularly alarming revelation is how chemicals from our clothes can become part of the very air we breathe:

1. Chemicals rub off clothes onto our skin
2. Dead skin cells, now contaminated with these chemicals, enter the air as dust particles
3. We inhale this chemical-laden dust, potentially exposing ourselves to toxins even when we're not wearing the clothes

This dust connection means that the impacts of toxic clothing extend far beyond skin-deep issues, potentially affecting our entire bodies.

Fashion's Toxic History: A Legacy of Danger

To provide context for the current crisis, Wicker takes readers on a journey through fashion's long and often deadly relationship with toxic substances.

Renaissance Poison: Fashion as a Weapon

In the 1500s and 1600s, European nobility were rumored to use clothing as a method of assassination. Gloves and other garments were allegedly laced with poison to eliminate political rivals. While these tales may be exaggerated, they speak to a long-standing awareness of clothing's potential to harm.

Queen Elizabeth I: A Royal Victim?

Even royalty wasn't immune to fashion's toxic effects. Some historians suspect that Queen Elizabeth I's death may have been related to heavy metal poisoning, accumulated over years of wearing mercury-laden makeup.

The Mad Hatter: More Than Just a Fairy Tale

The term "mad as a hatter" has its roots in a very real occupational hazard. In the 1800s, hat makers routinely used mercury in their craft. This led to widespread neurological issues among workers, including:

• Chronic convulsions
• Uncontrollable shaking
• Paralysis

Arsenic Green: Death by Fashion

The 19th century saw a craze for vivid green clothing and accessories. The problem? This trendy hue was often achieved using arsenic-based dyes. Both makers and wearers of these items suffered severe poisoning, leading to numerous deaths.

Gloversville: A Town Poisoned by Progress

Wicker takes readers to Gloversville, New York, a once-thriving center of glove manufacturing. Today, the town bears the scars of its industrial past:

• Nearly 30 known toxic sites in the area
• Chromium and other chemicals saturating the soil and water
• Residents suffering from various cancers, respiratory problems, mental health issues, and fertility struggles

The complex history of pollution in Gloversville makes it impossible to pin blame on any single corporation or chemical. This illustrates the challenges in addressing the long-term impacts of toxic fashion production.

The PVC Cover-Up: Profits Over People

The author exposes a particularly egregious example of corporate negligence with the story of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Now commonly used as a vegan leather alternative, PVC's dark history includes:

• 1950s: Scientists warn about cancer risks in animal studies
• PVC industry executives ignore and cover up the dangers
• 1970s: Multiple deaths at a Louisville PVC plant finally expose the truth
• Regulations implemented, but a 1979 study finds there is no safe level of vinyl chloride exposure

A Reactive Regulatory System

Wicker criticizes the global approach to regulating chemicals in clothing:

• Substances are typically only banned after decades of studies
• By the time action is taken, irreversible damage has often occurred
• New, untested chemicals constantly enter the market

This reactive system means we're often unknowingly exposed to harmful substances for years before any protective measures are put in place.

The Hidden Costs of Toxic Fashion

Beyond the immediate health impacts on workers and consumers, Wicker explores the broader, long-term consequences of our chemically-saturated wardrobes.

A Fertility Crisis

One of the most alarming trends Wicker uncovers is the potential link between toxic clothing and declining fertility rates:

• Global assisted reproduction market estimated at $2.3 billion in 2020 and growing rapidly
• 37% increase in U.S. women seeking fertility treatment due to low egg counts (2004-2011)
• Sharpest fertility declines seen in younger women (20s and 30s)
• Male sperm counts have plummeted by over 50% in the past 40 years
• One doctor estimates 41% of men could be infertile by 2050

The Endocrine Disruptor Connection

Wicker explains how chemicals used in fashion production can disrupt the body's endocrine system:

• Polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and phthalates are common culprits
• Even tiny amounts absorbed during pregnancy can cause permanent damage to developing embryos
• Effects can be seen at concentrations as low as parts per billion

Beyond Fertility: Wide-Ranging Health Impacts

The endocrine system regulates much more than just reproduction. Disruption can affect:

• The immune system
• Cardiovascular health
• Brain function
• Metabolism

Researchers are increasingly concluding that there is no "safe" dose of endocrine-disrupting chemicals.

The Cumulative Effect

Wicker highlights how exposure to clothing toxins, combined with chemicals from other sources like food and beauty products, can add up over time. This cumulative effect may lead to chronic issues such as:

• Persistent fatigue
• Skin irritation
• Reactive asthma

Chemical Sensitivities: When the Body Rebels

Some individuals develop severe chemical sensitivities after exposure to toxic clothing. Wicker shares the story of Chingy Wong, a Delta Airlines attendant whose life was forever changed by her uniform:

• Immediate illness upon wearing the new uniform
• Grounded from flying, never able to return to work
• Developed reactions to previously tolerable scents and chemicals
• Simple tasks like grocery shopping became challenging

The Mast Cell Connection

Wicker explains how chemical sensitivities may develop:

• Mast cells are the immune system's guardians
• They learn to recognize and respond to threats
• In our chemical-laden world, mast cells can become oversensitive
• This leads to disproportionate immune responses to a wide range of stimuli

Triggering Autoimmune Diseases

In some cases, exposure to toxic chemicals in clothing can trigger long-term autoimmune conditions. The author shares the harrowing experience of Tonya Osborne, a Southwest attendant:

• Initial symptoms included red blotches on chest and neck
• Condition worsened until she could no longer work
• Developed severe arthritis
• Required multiple surgeries on hand, arm, and rotator cuff
• Described her body as "falling apart"

While the exact mechanisms are still debated, medical experts agree that environmental factors – including chemicals in clothing – can trigger autoimmune responses.

The Global Impact: What Goes on Overseas

Wicker's investigation takes readers beyond Western consumers to explore the devastating effects of toxic fashion production in manufacturing hubs around the world.

Tirupur: A Tale of Two Realities

The author focuses on Tirupur, a major textile center in India:

• Stringent environmental regulations exist to protect waterways
• These same protections don't extend to workers in dyeing and treatment facilities
• Laborers handle toxic chemicals daily without adequate safety measures
• They breathe in particulates from freshly dyed fabrics saturated with unknown chemical mixtures

The Human Toll of Fast Fashion

Workers in these factories face a multitude of health issues:

• Chronic respiratory problems
• Scarred and damaged skin
• Extreme fatigue from long shifts (often 12 hours or more)
• Lack of health insurance or legal recourse against employers

The Transparency Problem

Even in better-run factories, workers are often left in the dark:

• Proprietary chemical formulas remain secret
• Workers don't know what substances they're handling
• Manufacturers and brands selling the clothes are also unaware of full ingredient lists

Some progressive brands have called for greater transparency from chemical suppliers, but progress has been slow.

Cutting Corners and Dodging Regulations

Wicker exposes how less ethical brands prioritize cost-cutting over worker safety:

• Switching factories to avoid implementing proper waste treatment
• Bypassing restricted substance lists through deceptive practices
• Annual testing by certification bodies like Oeko-Tex allows for temporary compliance followed by secret chemical substitutions

The Race to the Bottom

Conditions worsen dramatically in smaller, local market dyehouses:

• Use of the cheapest, completely unregulated chemicals
• Illegal dumping of toxic effluent directly into waterways
• Little to no oversight or consequences for these actions

The Disconnect: Out of Sight, Out of Mind

While Western consumers may not feel immediate effects, Wicker emphasizes that overseas workers bear the brunt of fashion's chemical assault. This geographical and economic disconnect allows the cycle of toxic production to continue largely unchecked.

Taking Action: What You Can Do

After painting a rather bleak picture, Wicker offers hope by providing practical steps consumers can take to protect themselves and push for change in the fashion industry.

Avoid Ultra-Fast Fashion and Cheap Knockoffs

• These products are often made with little oversight or concern for safety
• Companies producing them frequently operate in legal gray areas
• Your health is not worth the small savings these items offer

Support Transparent and Responsible Brands

• Look for companies committed to supply chain transparency
• Seek out brands actively working to eliminate toxins from their products
• Examples of progress: H&M, Patagonia, and Levi's

Check for Third-Party Certifications

• Look for safety certifications on product labels or brand websites
• Reputable certifications include bluesign and Oeko-Tex

Choose Natural Fibers When Possible

• Opt for cotton, wool, and silk over synthetic materials like polyester and nylon
• Synthetic fibers are more likely to off-gas or leach chemicals
• Be cautious of "performance" fabrics touting wrinkle and stain resistance, as these often contain PFAS chemicals

Be Wary of Bright Colors (If You Have Sensitive Skin)

• Vibrant dyes are more likely to contain irritating chemicals
• Those with sensitive skin should stick to more muted tones or natural, undyed fabrics

Wash Before Wearing

• Always launder new clothes before their first wear
• Use a fragrance-free detergent to avoid adding more chemicals
• This initial wash can help remove some chemical residues

Skip the Dry Cleaners

• Traditional dry cleaning uses toxic solvents that permeate clothing
• Most "dry clean only" items can actually be gently hand washed and air dried
• If dry cleaning is absolutely necessary, seek out "green" cleaners using less harmful methods

Embrace Secondhand Shopping

• Buying used clothes means they've had time to off-gas and release some chemicals
• Check out local thrift stores, garage sales, and online secondhand marketplaces
• This option is often more budget-friendly and better for the environment

Trust Your Senses

• If a new item has a strong chemical smell, return it
• Don't ignore physical reactions like skin irritation or headaches after wearing certain clothes

Advocate for Change

While individual actions are important, Wicker emphasizes the need for systemic change:

• Support organizations pushing for stricter regulations on textile chemicals
• Contact your representatives about the need for more oversight in the fashion industry
• Use social media to raise awareness and pressure brands to be more transparent

The Road Ahead: A Call for Systemic Change

Wicker concludes by outlining the broader changes needed to truly address the toxic fashion crisis:

Comprehensive Chemical Bans

• Hazardous substances must be banned from all garments, not just select items
• This requires coordinated action from governments around the world

Full Disclosure and Testing

• Companies should be required to fully disclose all chemicals used in their products
• Regular, independent testing of garments should be mandatory

Corporate Accountability

• Fashion brands must be held legally and financially responsible for pollution and worker health issues in their supply chains
• This will incentivize companies to prioritize safety over cost-cutting

Investment in Green Chemistry

• More funding and support for developing safe, non-toxic alternatives to current textile chemicals
• Collaboration between scientists, manufacturers, and brands to implement these innovations

Consumer Education

• Widespread campaigns to inform the public about the dangers of toxic clothing
• Clear labeling systems to help shoppers make informed choices

Support for Sustainable Production

• Government incentives for brands and manufacturers adopting eco-friendly practices
• Investment in infrastructure for proper chemical management and waste treatment

Global Cooperation

• International agreements to set and enforce standards for textile production
• Support for developing nations to transition to safer manufacturing methods

Final Thoughts: A Safer Fashion Future is Possible

"To Dye For" serves as both a stark warning and a call to action. Alden Wicker's meticulous research exposes the hidden dangers woven into the very fabric of our clothing. From the factory floors of Asia to our own closets, the impacts of toxic fashion are far-reaching and often devastating.

Yet Wicker's message is ultimately one of hope and empowerment. By making informed choices as consumers and pushing for systemic change, we can work towards a future where fashion enhances our lives without endangering our health or the planet.

The journey to detoxify the fashion industry will be long and challenging. It requires a fundamental shift in how we produce, consume, and value clothing. But as Wicker compellingly argues, the stakes are too high to ignore. Our clothes should protect and adorn us, not slowly poison us.

As readers close the final pages of "To Dye For," they are left with a newfound awareness of the clothes on their backs and the power in their wallets. Wicker challenges us to reimagine our relationship with fashion – to demand transparency, prioritize safety, and recognize the true cost of what we wear.

The toxic legacy of fashion is long and deep, but it doesn't have to define our future. With knowledge, action, and persistence, we can weave a new narrative – one of sustainable, ethical, and truly beautiful clothing that honors both people and the planet.