A River in Darkness

Introduction

"A River in Darkness" is a powerful memoir by Masaji Ishikawa that offers a rare and harrowing glimpse into life inside North Korea. As one of the few people who have managed to escape the notorious hermit kingdom and live to tell the tale, Ishikawa provides a firsthand account of the brutal realities of life under one of the world's most oppressive regimes.

The book chronicles Ishikawa's journey from his childhood in Japan to his family's ill-fated decision to emigrate to North Korea in search of a better life. What follows is a heart-wrenching tale of persecution, hardship, and survival in a totalitarian state that defies imagination. Through Ishikawa's eyes, we witness the gradual erosion of hope and humanity in a society built on lies, fear, and deprivation.

The Promise of Paradise

In the late 1950s, North Korea launched a campaign to attract ethnic Koreans living in Japan to "return" to their ancestral homeland. The propaganda painted a picture of a socialist paradise where everyone was equal and opportunities abounded. For many Koreans facing discrimination and economic hardship in Japan, this seemed like a chance at a better life.

Ishikawa's family was among the over 100,000 Koreans and 2,000 Japanese citizens who boarded ships bound for North Korea between the late 1950s and mid-1980s. This mass migration was unprecedented – the first and only time such a large number of people voluntarily left a capitalist country for a communist one.

However, the dream of a better life quickly turned into a nightmare for the new arrivals. As soon as they docked in North Korea, there were signs that things were not as promised:

• The locals helping unload the ship were dressed in rags, indicating widespread poverty.
• Their first meal was unappetizing dog meat that most could barely stomach.
• New arrivals were confined to small, cold rooms for a week before being assigned homes.

Ishikawa's family was sent to the remote village of Dong Chong-ri, far from the relative comforts of Pyongyang. Without connections to the ruling Korean Workers' Party, they had no chance of securing a desirable placement.

Discrimination and Hardship

From the start, Ishikawa's family faced cruel discrimination for their Japanese origins:

• On his first day of school, Ishikawa was called a "Japanese bastard" by classmates.
• Students mocked his "fancy" watch and school bag, forcing him to adopt local customs.
• His educated mother was denied work until she learned Korean.
• The family struggled to survive on his father's meager farmer's salary.

Ishikawa quickly learned that in North Korea, one's place in society was rigidly determined by family background and perceived loyalty to the regime. Despite his best efforts in school, he was classified as "hostile" – the lowest social rank. This meant he would be denied opportunities regardless of his abilities or ambitions.

Life in a Totalitarian State

Ishikawa's account provides chilling insights into daily life under totalitarian rule:

Propaganda and Indoctrination

• Schools focused heavily on propaganda glorifying the "Great Leader" Kim Il-sung.
• Children were forced to study the regime's version of history and revolutionary ideology.
• Skepticism or questioning of official narratives was severely punished.

Harsh Social Rituals

• Students had to collect two rabbit pelts annually for the military, an almost impossible task given food shortages.
• Failure to provide pelts resulted in harsh punishment unless parents could bribe teachers.

Constant Surveillance

• The government monitored all aspects of citizens' lives.
• Neighbors were encouraged to report on each other.
• Even private conversations could be dangerous if overheard.

Arbitrary Cruelty

In 1968, soldiers suddenly occupied Ishikawa's village, terrorizing residents for a year:

• Families were forcibly evicted from their homes.
• Soldiers stole equipment and food from villagers.
• The occupation ended as abruptly as it began when the commander fell out of favor with Kim Il-sung.

This episode highlighted the capricious nature of power in North Korea and the complete helplessness of ordinary citizens.

The Corruption of Society

As conditions worsened, North Korean society became increasingly corrupt and dehumanized:

Unfair Resource Distribution

• Food and goods were distributed through a strict rationing system.
• Those with connections to powerful figures received preferential treatment.
• The elderly, sick, and socially disadvantaged often went hungry.

Bribery and Theft

• Citizens relied on bribes and theft to obtain essentials.
• Even supposedly free services like healthcare required payment or bribes.

Loss of Compassion

• The struggle for survival eroded social bonds and basic humanity.
• Ishikawa recounts being scorned by a doctor when seeking help for a sick neighbor without the means to pay.

The Great Famine

The death of Kim Il-sung in 1994 marked the beginning of an even darker chapter in North Korean history. A combination of natural disasters and economic mismanagement led to a catastrophic famine between 1991 and 2000:

• An estimated 3 million North Koreans died of starvation and related illnesses.
• Food rations became increasingly irregular before stopping completely.
• People were reduced to eating grass, tree bark, and even resorting to cannibalism in extreme cases.

Ishikawa provides haunting descriptions of the famine's impact:

• Starving children roaming the streets in search of food.
• People dropping dead from hunger in public places.
• The complete breakdown of social order as desperation set in.

Crime and Survival

With the collapse of the official economy and food distribution system, many North Koreans turned to crime as the only means of survival:

• Black markets flourished, trading in stolen goods and smuggled items.
• Gangs and criminal networks gained power, often with tacit approval from corrupt officials.
• Violence and exploitation became commonplace.

Ishikawa's own family fell victim to criminal predation. His father was conned into a scheme involving the sale of a whale's penis (valued in traditional Chinese medicine). When he couldn't repay the gangsters, they subjected him to brutal beatings that eventually contributed to his death.

The Decision to Escape

As conditions became unbearable, Ishikawa made the agonizing decision to attempt an escape to China. His reasoning was stark: if he was going to die anyway, he might as well die trying to reach freedom and potentially help his family.

The most viable escape route was across the Yalu River, which forms part of the border between North Korea and China. However, this journey was fraught with danger:

• Armed guards patrolled the North Korean side of the river.
• Those caught attempting to cross faced execution or imprisonment in brutal labor camps.
• Even if one made it to China, there was a risk of being caught by North Korean agents or sent back by Chinese authorities.

Ishikawa heard horrific stories of failed escape attempts, including the notorious "nose-ring case" where a family was dragged back across the border with wires through their noses before being executed.

The Perilous Crossing

Despite the risks, Ishikawa was determined to make the attempt. He traveled to the border city of Hyesan and spent days observing the river, looking for an opportunity to cross.

On the third night, heavy rain provided the cover he needed. Ishikawa plunged into the fast-moving water, fighting against the current. Just as he neared the Chinese shore, he struck his head on a rock and lost consciousness.

Miraculously, Ishikawa survived. He awoke two days later on Chinese soil, his presence announced by a friendly dog – a surreal sight for someone accustomed to seeing dogs only as a potential food source.

Escape to Freedom

Even after reaching China, Ishikawa's ordeal was far from over. He lived in constant fear of being discovered by North Korean agents or Chinese authorities who might send him back.

With the help of the Japanese Red Cross and embassy staff, Ishikawa was eventually able to secure passage to Japan. However, the process was nerve-wracking:

• He remained hidden in a hotel room, afraid to answer the door or make any noise.
• When it was time to leave, he had to be smuggled out in disguise through a secret tunnel.
• Every step of the journey was fraught with the possibility of discovery and capture.

On October 15, 1995, after 36 years away, Ishikawa finally set foot on Japanese soil as a free man.

The Challenges of Freedom

While escaping North Korea was an incredible feat, Ishikawa soon discovered that building a new life in Japan came with its own set of challenges:

Cultural Adjustment

• After decades in North Korea, Ishikawa struggled to adapt to Japanese society and customs.
• The fast-paced, technologically advanced world of modern Japan was overwhelming.

Employment Difficulties

• Ishikawa lacked the education and skills needed for most jobs in Japan.
• His North Korean background made some employers and coworkers wary.
• He often had to rely on government welfare to survive.

Emotional Trauma

• The memories of his experiences in North Korea continued to haunt him.
• Guilt over leaving his family behind weighed heavily on his conscience.

Ongoing Fears

• Ishikawa worried about potential repercussions for his family in North Korea.
• The fear of North Korean agents discovering his whereabouts never fully subsided.

The Fate of Those Left Behind

Perhaps the most heart-wrenching aspect of Ishikawa's story is the fate of the family he left behind in North Korea. Despite his best efforts to send money and support once he reached Japan, communication was difficult and unreliable.

The last letter Ishikawa received from North Korea brought devastating news – his wife and daughter had died of starvation during the famine. This tragic loss underscored the brutal reality of life in North Korea and the impossible choices faced by those who manage to escape.

Reflections on North Korea

Through his memoir, Ishikawa offers valuable insights into the nature of North Korean society and the Kim regime:

The Power of Propaganda

• The North Korean government maintains control through pervasive indoctrination.
• From an early age, citizens are taught to revere the Kim family as godlike figures.
• Alternative viewpoints or outside information are strictly forbidden.

Social Control Through Fear

• The threat of punishment, not just for individuals but for entire families, keeps people in line.
• A vast network of informants creates an atmosphere of constant surveillance and mistrust.

Economic Mismanagement

• The regime's policies have led to chronic shortages and economic stagnation.
• Resources are diverted to the military and elite while ordinary citizens suffer.

International Isolation

• North Korea's self-imposed isolation has cut its people off from the outside world.
• This isolation allows the regime to maintain its grip on power by controlling information.

The Human Cost of Totalitarianism

Ishikawa's account serves as a powerful testament to the human cost of totalitarian rule. His experiences highlight how a repressive system can:

• Strip away individual dignity and basic human rights.
• Erode social bonds and trust between people.
• Stifle creativity, ambition, and personal growth.
• Create a culture of fear, suspicion, and hopelessness.

The Power of the Human Spirit

Despite the unimaginable hardships he endured, Ishikawa's story is also one of resilience and the indomitable human spirit. His ability to maintain hope, even in the darkest circumstances, and his courage in seeking freedom against overwhelming odds are truly inspiring.

Lessons for the World

"A River in Darkness" offers important lessons for the international community:

The Importance of Human Rights

• Ishikawa's experiences underscore the need for continued focus on human rights violations in North Korea.
• The international community must find ways to hold the regime accountable and support the North Korean people.

The Dangers of Isolation

• North Korea's extreme isolation has allowed its government to maintain power despite catastrophic failures.
• Efforts to engage with and open up North Korea, while challenging, are crucial for long-term change.

The Value of Freedom

• Ishikawa's story reminds us of the precious nature of freedom and the heavy price paid by those who live without it.
• It challenges readers to appreciate the liberties they may take for granted.

Final Thoughts

Masaji Ishikawa's "A River in Darkness" is a powerful and deeply moving account of survival in one of the world's most oppressive regimes. Through his personal story, readers gain rare insights into the realities of life in North Korea – the crushing poverty, the pervasive fear, and the struggle to maintain hope in seemingly hopeless circumstances.

The book serves as both a damning indictment of the North Korean regime and a testament to the resilience of the human spirit. Ishikawa's journey from the false promise of a socialist paradise to the harsh reality of totalitarian rule, and finally to freedom, is a stark reminder of the value of liberty and the high cost of its absence.

While Ishikawa's escape to Japan brought an end to his physical ordeal in North Korea, his story makes clear that the emotional scars of such experiences are not easily healed. The loss of family, the years of suffering, and the challenge of adapting to a radically different society all take their toll.

Ultimately, "A River in Darkness" is a call to action. It challenges readers to bear witness to the ongoing tragedy in North Korea and to consider what can be done to support those still trapped within its borders. Ishikawa's courage in sharing his story ensures that the plight of the North Korean people will not be forgotten and that hope for change, however faint, remains alive.