Book cover of The Story of Sushi by Trevor Corson

Trevor Corson

The Story of Sushi Summary

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Do you truly know the art and culture behind your sushi roll, or are you simply smothering centuries of tradition with soy sauce?

1. Sushi is a Symbol of Health and Love in Japan

In Japan, sushi is more than food; it's a symbol of health and vitality, deeply embedded in its culture and stories. Unlike other childhood tales about vegetables, Japanese children grow up hearing tales like Kanoko Okamoto's 1939 story "Sushi," where eating sushi helps a weak boy thrive. This storytelling reinforces its status as a source of well-being for both kids and adults.

The special care and love that go into making sushi connect it to the idea of nourishment and health. The process of cleaning hands, rolling, and preparing nutritious toppings conveys respect for food – a lesson taught through sushi rituals. This cultural aspect has transcended borders, influencing food habits globally.

Outside Japan, sushi has also profoundly impacted individuals. For instance, athlete Kate Murray discovered sushi during a health crisis. Its balanced nutrition and the artistry by attentive sushi chefs revitalized her body and spirit, leading her to become a sushi chef herself.

Examples

  • "Sushi" by Kanoko Okamoto shows the transformative power of sushi for children.
  • Kate Murray's recovery story highlights sushi's restorative qualities.
  • The tradition of crafting sushi with precision reflects its health-focused roots.

2. Sushi is Not About Fish—It’s About Rice

Contrary to popular belief, "sushi" doesn’t directly mean fish. Instead, the word refers to the unique rice used, seasoned with salt, sugar, and rice vinegar—a critical element of the dish. This rice holds so much importance that sushi chefs in Japan master it for years before moving to learn about other ingredients.

Historically, sushi didn’t even involve eating the rice—it was used to preserve fish through fermentation. Over time, rice evolved into the centerpiece of sushi dishes, becoming the foundation for the flavors we enjoy today. Understanding this gives a deeper appreciation of sushi's evolution.

Many habits in the West diverge from traditional sushi practices. Dunking rice into soy sauce, for example, contradicts its careful preparation. Similarly, consuming all the pickled ginger (gari) at once overlooks its intended purpose as a palate cleanser, aiding the transition between flavors.

Examples

  • Traditional sushi chefs train for two years to master the rice.
  • Historical sushi used rice as a preservative, not part of the meal.
  • Gari, meant for cleansing, is often misunderstood by Western diners.

3. The Airiness of Nigiri is Everything

Nigiri sushi might seem simple, but its perfection comes from painstaking technique. Japanese chefs create a balance of firm and airy textures by following specific movements designed to incorporate air into the rice while keeping the roll intact.

Chefs begin by shaping rice into a cylinder using their hands, adding lightness while ensuring stability. They then place fish atop the rice, gently molding both into a cohesive form. Repeated actions, such as turning the rice roll over and pressing, allow air pockets to form, essential for a delicate texture.

Scientific studies have even analyzed nigiri, revealing high-quality rolls contain more air than dense, poorly made ones. This dedication to perfection exemplifies why mastering sushi often takes decades.

Examples

  • Sushi chefs shape rice into cylinders to incorporate air.
  • Japanese rituals involve shaping rice to prevent it from falling apart.
  • Studies confirm superior nigiri rolls have more air.

4. Modern Shrimp Sushi Raises Ethical Questions

Shrimp, a favorite sushi topping in the West, wasn’t traditionally part of Japanese sushi until after World War II. Chefs adapted shrimp due to its popularity in America, preparing it either raw or cooked to suit diverse tastes.

However, shrimp sustainability has raised ethical concerns. Harvesting methods like trawling often harm marine life such as sea turtles. Additionally, shrimp deteriorate quickly after death, leading to controversial practices like killing them just before serving.

Environmental and ethical dilemmas of shrimp farming add to these issues. Mangrove ecosystems have been destroyed to create farms, showcasing how a once-rare delicacy impacts natural habitats.

Examples

  • Shrimp joined sushi menus post-WWII due to its U.S. appeal.
  • Live shrimp handling raises ethical concerns in Japan.
  • Trawling affects essential marine ecosystems.

5. Age and Origin of Fish Determine Their Quality

When ordering sushi, understanding the fish’s maturity and origins enhances appreciation. For yellowtail tuna, flavor shifts as they age. For example, young "inada" is distinctively different compared to mature "buri." Regional terms for development stages further complicate matters.

While farmed yellowtail is common in the U.S. for its buttery texture, it lacks the depth of wild fish. Wild fish swim long distances, developing leaner and more flavorful flesh compared to farmed ones, which offer higher fat content.

The Japanese preference for lean, wild fish reflects sushi’s ties to low-fat diets and natural flavors. This is why top sushi chefs emphasize sourcing wild, well-aged fish.

Examples

  • Flavor profiles of yellowtail shift with their maturity.
  • Wild fish offer lean, flavorful meat compared to farmed ones.
  • Farmed yellowtail’s high fat contradicts Japanese dietary principles.

6. Salmon Eggs Require a Detailed Preparation

Salmon eggs—or roe—might look simple, but they go through a meticulous process before being served. Once considered bait in the U.S., post-World War II Japanese chefs introduced roe to sushi, bringing complexity to their preparation.

Eggs pass through several steps: rinsing to remove residue, soaking in salt water to loosen membranes, and brining to enhance texture and taste. Finally, marination in a blend of soy sauce, mirin, and dashi completes the process.

The result is a flavorful topping with firmer texture and richer taste. This fusion of tradition and innovation characterizes modern sushi.

Examples

  • Japanese chefs introduced roe to sushi post-WWII.
  • Roe preparation involves multiple cleaning and marinating steps.
  • Saltwater brining strengthens the eggshells for better texture.

7. Sushi Rituals Mimic Martial Art Techniques

Preparing sushi isn’t just culinary—it’s an art form akin to martial arts. Chefs channel precision, focus, and body alignment similar to kung fu masters. This philosophy is passed through institutions like the California Sushi Academy.

Chef Toshi Sugiura likens sushi-making to a spiritual practice. His rapid movements transform a lump of rice into a perfect nigiri in seconds. Techniques like stepping back from the cutting board mimic martial stances, emphasizing power from body alignment, not just hands.

This physicality makes sushi preparation not only a skill but a performance art steeped in centuries of Japanese tradition.

Examples

  • Chef Toshi’s movements parallel martial arts in speed and precision.
  • Students at the California Sushi Academy study sushi rituals like kung fu.
  • Techniques ensure proper body mechanics during preparation.

Takeaways

  1. Respect sushi traditions by eating sushi with your hands, as intended.
  2. Stop mixing soy sauce and wasabi—enjoy the chef’s crafted balance of flavors.
  3. Educate yourself on sustainable seafood when choosing sushi to support ethical practices.

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