The Story of Sushi

Introduction

Sushi has become a global phenomenon, evolving from a Japanese delicacy to a popular food choice worldwide. In "The Story of Sushi," Trevor Corson takes readers on a fascinating journey through the history, culture, and art of sushi-making. This book offers a deep dive into the world of sushi, exploring its origins, techniques, and the intricate rituals surrounding its preparation and consumption.

The Cultural Significance of Sushi in Japan

A Source of Health and Well-being

In Japan, sushi is more than just a meal; it's a source of strength and good health for both adults and children. This perception is deeply ingrained in Japanese culture, as illustrated by a famous children's story written by poet Kanoko Okamoto in 1939.

The story, simply titled "Sushi," tells of a sickly boy who becomes healthy and strong after learning to appreciate the care and love his mother puts into preparing sushi. This tale highlights the cultural importance of sushi in Japan and its association with nurturing and well-being.

Spreading Beyond Japan

The appreciation for sushi's unique qualities has now reached far beyond Japan's borders. In the early 2000s, Californian soccer player Kate Murray discovered the benefits of sushi after suffering from a sports injury and subsequent health issues. Sushi not only helped improve her physical health but also inspired her to become a sushi chef herself.

Murray's story exemplifies how sushi has transcended cultural boundaries and become a symbol of health and vitality in other parts of the world.

Common Misconceptions About Sushi

The True Meaning of "Sushi"

Many people associate the word "sushi" with raw fish, but this is a common misconception. In Japanese, "sushi" actually refers to the rice used in the dish. Specifically, it denotes a type of round-grained rice seasoned with salt, sugar, and rice vinegar.

The importance of rice in sushi-making cannot be overstated. Traditional Japanese sushi chefs spend two years learning to prepare sushi rice before moving on to other ingredients. In fact, some sushi restaurants used to employ a full-time specialist whose sole responsibility was to prepare the rice.

The Evolution of Sushi

Interestingly, in its earliest form, sushi was quite different from what we know today. The rice was initially used as a preservative for fish, left to ferment in alcohol. The fermented rice was discarded before consuming the fish. This practice evolved over time, leading to the sushi we're familiar with today.

Common Mistakes in Eating Sushi

As sushi spread to the West, certain habits developed that go against traditional sushi etiquette. For example:

1. Drowning sushi in a mixture of wasabi and soy sauce, which overpowers the delicate flavors carefully prepared by the chef.
2. Consuming all the gari (pickled ginger) before eating any sushi. Gari is meant to be a palate cleanser between different types of sushi.
3. Dipping the rice side of nigiri into soy sauce. If you must use soy sauce, it should only touch the fish topping.

The Art of Nigiri-Making

The Perfect Nigiri

Japanese sushi chefs dedicate their lives to mastering the art of handcrafting the perfect nigiri - a portion of rice topped with various ingredients. The process of creating nigiri follows specific rules and techniques aimed at achieving a light and airy texture.

The Nigiri-Making Process

1. The chef takes a handful of rice and shapes it into a cylinder with their right hand.
2. A piece of fish is flipped onto the left palm, and the rice cylinder is gently placed on top.
3. The chef squeezes the rice into a triangular shape and then back into a cylinder, allowing air to enter the nigiri.
4. The sushi roll is turned over into the left hand and pinched into a rectangular shape.
5. Finally, the chef lightly presses down on the fish to ensure it adheres to the rice.

This process results in a nigiri that is firm enough to hold together but loose enough to dissolve easily in the mouth. Scientific studies using MRI scans have shown that the best sushi rolls indeed contain more air than inferior ones.

Temperature Considerations

During the nigiri-making process, the chef handles the chilled fish just long enough to warm it slightly. This ensures that the sushi is served at body temperature, which is considered ideal for enjoying the flavors.

The Introduction of Shrimp to Sushi

A Recent Addition

Shrimp is now a popular item on many sushi menus, especially in the United States. However, it's a relatively recent addition to the world of sushi. Shrimp only became a common topping after World War II, when the Tokyo style of making nigiri spread to the West.

Shrimp Varieties in Sushi

Sushi menus typically feature two variations of shrimp:

1. Raw and transparent
2. Cooked to a pink and white color (more popular in America)

The Curious Life of Shrimp

Some species of shrimp, like the Pandalus borealis, have fascinating life cycles. These shrimp spend their first two years as sexually active males before transforming into females, converting their testes into ovaries.

Ethical Concerns

The use of shrimp in sushi raises several ethical concerns:

1. Shrimp decompose rapidly after death, leading to the practice of keeping them alive until just before preparation. This often involves removing the tails from live shrimp.

2. Shrimp fishing methods, such as trawling, can be environmentally damaging. Large nets dragged through the ocean often trap and kill various species, including endangered ones like sea turtles.

3. Shrimp farming has led to the destruction of valuable mangrove habitats to create coastal farms.

The Language of Fish Maturity

Regional Variations

Different regions in Japan use various terms to describe the maturity stages of fish, particularly yellowtail tuna. This can make deciphering sushi menus challenging for newcomers.

In Tokyo, for example, people recognize five stages of yellowtail development:

1. Mojako (1-2 inches)
2. Wakashi (2-6 inches)
3. Inada (6-16 inches)
4. Warasa (16 inches to 2 feet)
5. Buri (fully mature)

In contrast, Kyoto recognizes seven stages with a different set of names.

Wild vs. Farmed Fish

Despite these regional differences, most sushi enthusiasts agree that wild fish make the best sushi. While farmed yellowtail has been popular in the United States since the 1970s for its tender and buttery texture, it lacks the flavor complexity of wild yellowtail.

Farmed yellowtail can contain up to 30% fat, which goes against the traditionally low-fat Japanese diet. Additionally, farming practices often result in larger fish eating smaller ones, reducing variety.

Sushi masters particularly value the flavor of fish that have swum long distances and matured in the wild.

The Addition of Salmon Eggs to Sushi

A Recent Innovation

Fish eggs, particularly salmon eggs, are a relatively new addition to sushi menus. While fish eggs have been part of the human diet for thousands of years, their use in sushi is a post-World War II innovation.

Historical Context

Japanese people have consumed fish eggs for millennia, but it was the Russians who popularized salmon eggs as caviar in the 19th century. In the United States, salmon eggs were primarily used as fish bait before gaining popularity as a food item.

The Preparation Process

Preparing salmon eggs for sushi is a complex and time-consuming process:

1. The eggs are rinsed in water to remove any sticky residue.
2. They are placed in salt water to loosen the membranes for removal.
3. The eggs are soaked in brine to strengthen their shells and improve texture.
4. Finally, they are marinated for 2-3 days in a mixture of soy sauce, sake, mirin, and dashi.

This lengthy process enhances the flavor and texture of the salmon eggs, making them a prized sushi topping.

The Rituals and Techniques of Sushi Preparation

Sushi as a Spiritual Practice

In Japanese culture, making sushi is as much about ritual and tradition as it is about flavor. Sushi master Toshi Sugiura, founder of the California Sushi Academy in Los Angeles, teaches his students that making sushi is a spiritual endeavor, similar to practicing kung fu.

The Kung Fu Connection

The association between sushi-making and kung fu is common in Japan. This connection is evident in popular culture, such as sushi-themed Japanese comic books where chefs compete using different nigiri-forming styles with martial arts-inspired names.

Mastering the Art

When observing a sushi master at work, the similarities to martial arts become apparent:

1. The stance: Chefs often stand at a 45-degree angle to the chopping board, reminiscent of a martial arts stance.
2. The technique: Chopping is done with great speed and force, requiring proper body alignment and practice.
3. The discipline: Mastering sushi-making, like martial arts, requires years of dedicated practice.

Tips for Enjoying Sushi Like a Pro

1. Use your hands: Traditionally, sushi is eaten with the hands, not chopsticks.
2. Respect the chef's creation: Avoid drowning the sushi in soy sauce or wasabi, as this overpowers the carefully balanced flavors.
3. Use gari (pickled ginger) as a palate cleanser between different types of sushi.
4. If using soy sauce with nigiri, dip only the fish side, not the rice.
5. Appreciate the different stages of fish maturity and their unique flavors.
6. Consider trying wild fish options for a more authentic taste experience.
7. Be open to trying new ingredients, such as salmon eggs, which offer unique textures and flavors.

The Future of Sushi

As sushi continues to gain popularity worldwide, it faces several challenges and opportunities:

1. Sustainability: The increasing demand for sushi puts pressure on fish populations and ecosystems. Sustainable fishing practices and responsible farming methods will be crucial for the future of sushi.

2. Innovation: Chefs around the world are experimenting with new ingredients and techniques, creating fusion sushi that blends traditional Japanese methods with local flavors.

3. Cultural exchange: As sushi spreads globally, it continues to adapt to local tastes while also introducing aspects of Japanese culture to new audiences.

4. Health considerations: The reputation of sushi as a healthy food choice may lead to increased popularity, but it also raises questions about mercury levels in certain fish and the balance of traditional vs. modern preparation methods.

5. Preservation of tradition: As sushi evolves, there's a growing interest in preserving traditional techniques and educating people about the cultural significance of this iconic dish.

Conclusion

"The Story of Sushi" takes readers on a captivating journey through the world of this beloved Japanese dish. From its humble beginnings as a method of preserving fish to its current status as a global culinary phenomenon, sushi has undergone remarkable transformations while maintaining its core essence.

The book highlights the intricate balance between tradition and innovation in sushi-making. It reveals the deep cultural significance of sushi in Japan and how this has spread to other parts of the world. The meticulous attention to detail in every aspect of sushi preparation, from the perfect rice to the precise cuts of fish, demonstrates the level of craftsmanship involved in this culinary art form.

Trevor Corson's exploration of sushi also sheds light on the environmental and ethical considerations surrounding the ingredients used in sushi, particularly concerning fish and seafood sustainability. This aspect of the book encourages readers to think more critically about the food they consume and its impact on the environment.

The comparison of sushi-making to martial arts practices like kung fu offers a unique perspective on the discipline and dedication required to master this craft. It elevates sushi preparation from mere cooking to an art form that demands both physical skill and spiritual commitment.

For sushi enthusiasts, the book provides valuable insights into how to appreciate and consume sushi in a more authentic and respectful manner. By understanding the history, techniques, and cultural context of sushi, readers can enhance their dining experience and develop a deeper appreciation for this iconic dish.

As sushi continues to evolve and adapt to global tastes, "The Story of Sushi" serves as both a celebration of its rich history and a contemplation of its future. It invites readers to look beyond the surface and discover the complex world that exists within each carefully crafted piece of sushi.

Ultimately, Trevor Corson's book is not just about food; it's a story of cultural exchange, artistic expression, and the human desire to create something both beautiful and delicious. "The Story of Sushi" will leave readers with a newfound respect for the skill and artistry behind every sushi roll, and perhaps a craving for their next sushi adventure.