Introduction
Have you ever wondered what all the fuss is about when it comes to wine? Why do some people seem to obsess over vintages, grapes, and soil types? Is there really a significant difference between a $20 bottle and a $200 bottle? In "Cork Dork," author Bianca Bosker takes us on a fascinating journey into the world of wine as she transforms from a casual wine drinker to a certified sommelier.
Bosker's adventure begins when she encounters a sommelier preparing for the World's Best Sommelier Competition. Intrigued by the complexity and dedication required for such a competition, she decides to dive headfirst into the world of wine. She quits her job as a journalist and embarks on an ambitious quest to become a certified sommelier, immersing herself in the culture, science, and art of wine appreciation.
Throughout her journey, Bosker uncovers the secrets of how to truly appreciate wine, explores the science behind taste and smell, and learns the intricacies of wine service. She also delves into the sometimes obsessive and eccentric world of top sommeliers, uncovering their unique practices and dedication to their craft.
Let's explore the key insights and lessons from Bosker's wine-soaked adventure.
The Obsessive World of Sommeliers
Becoming a top sommelier is no easy feat. It requires an almost obsessive dedication to the craft, pushing the boundaries of one's sensory abilities and knowledge. Bosker quickly discovers that the world of wine is far more complex and demanding than she ever imagined.
One of the most challenging aspects of being a sommelier is the ability to perform blind tastings. This involves identifying a wine's grape variety, vintage, country of origin, and even specific region based solely on its appearance, aroma, and taste. To put this into perspective, there are over 5,000 grape varieties, 50 wine-producing nations, and countless wine regions within each country. The level of expertise required to accurately identify a wine in just 180 seconds is truly astounding.
Bosker witnesses this firsthand when she watches Véronique Rivest, the first female finalist in the World's Best Sommelier Competition, correctly identify a wine from Maharashtra, India, as a 2011 Chenin Blanc. This level of precision and knowledge ignites Bosker's curiosity and sets her on her own path to becoming a sommelier.
As she delves deeper into the world of wine, Bosker discovers that sommeliers approach their craft with an intensity that borders on obsession. They dedicate themselves to honing their sensory abilities, often going to extreme lengths to protect and enhance their senses of smell and taste.
For example, one sommelier advises Bosker to taste every possible variation of citrus fruits, from ripe to overripe, including the fruit, juice, pits, and peel. Another suggests licking rocks to familiarize herself with mineral flavors found in certain wines. These practices may seem eccentric to outsiders, but they are essential for developing the refined palate required of a top sommelier.
Some sommeliers take their dedication even further. One always travels with his own homemade granola to maintain a consistent sensory baseline, while another recommends stocking up on a favorite toothpaste brand to avoid confusing the taste buds with new flavors. These measures may seem extreme, but they highlight the level of commitment required to excel in the world of wine.
The Science of Taste and Smell
To truly appreciate wine, Bosker realizes that she needs to understand the science behind taste and smell. She discovers that our understanding of these senses has evolved significantly over the years, debunking some long-held myths along the way.
For instance, the widely accepted "tongue map" that assigned different taste sensations to specific areas of the tongue was actually based on a mistranslation of a German dissertation from 1901. It wasn't until the 1970s that scientists realized the entire tongue is sensitive to all five basic tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami.
Bosker also learns about the crucial distinction between flavor, taste, and smell. Flavor is the overall impression we form when consuming food or drink, created by a combination of taste and smell. Interestingly, smell plays a much more significant role in our perception of flavor than most people realize.
A study conducted by researchers at the University of Pennsylvania found that many patients who complained of losing their sense of taste were actually suffering from a loss of smell. This highlights the powerful influence of aroma on our perception of flavor. To demonstrate this, Bosker suggests trying a simple experiment: take a sip of coffee while holding your nose closed. You'll likely only taste bitterness, as the true flavor of coffee relies heavily on its aroma.
The good news is that our sense of smell can be improved with training. Bosker cites a study by Thomas Hummel, a smell-focused professor from Dresden, Germany, which showed that people who had lost their sense of smell due to illness could improve their olfactory abilities through a smell-training regime. Participants who smelled specific odors like eucalyptus, rose, and lemon twice a day for three months experienced a noticeable increase in their ability to smell.
Inspired by this research, Bosker begins her own smell-training regimen, systematically sniffing essential wine aromas twice a day. Through this practice, she discovers that anyone can train their nose to better appreciate the complex aromas found in wine.
The Art of Wine Tasting
As Bosker delves deeper into her sommelier training, she learns that there's much more to tasting wine than simply sipping and swallowing. She discovers a systematic approach to wine appreciation that engages all the senses and reveals the intricate characteristics of each bottle.
The first step in proper wine tasting is visual examination. By observing how the wine moves in the glass, one can gather clues about its alcohol content. Slow, thick tears rolling down the sides of the glass indicate higher alcohol levels, while quick, thin tears or wine that rolls down in sheets suggests lower alcohol content.
Next comes the all-important smell. Bosker learns that to fully appreciate a wine's aroma, it's best to hold the glass almost parallel to the floor, exposing more of the wine's surface to the air. This position allows for a fuller, more complex aroma to develop. She emphasizes the importance of taking long, deep sniffs from multiple angles to capture all the nuances of the wine's bouquet.
The tasting process itself is more involved than simply taking a sip. Bosker describes a technique where you swirl the wine around your mouth, purse your lips slightly, and suck in air. This action, while potentially looking a bit silly, helps release more of the wine's aromatic compounds, enhancing the overall tasting experience.
While tasting, sommeliers pay close attention to the wine's tannins – natural compounds that can create a drying sensation in the mouth. The feel of these tannins can provide clues about the grape variety and the wine's age. For example, a sandpapery mouthfeel might indicate a young Nebbiolo, while a silky texture could point to a low-tannin wine like Pinot Noir.
Finally, Bosker learns to assess the wine's body – a characteristic that relates to the wine's texture and weight in the mouth rather than its taste. To understand the concept of body, she suggests holding different types of milk in your mouth: cream for full-bodied, whole milk for medium-bodied, and skim milk for light-bodied wines.
By approaching wine tasting with this level of attention and engagement, Bosker discovers that even novice wine drinkers can begin to appreciate the complexity and nuance of different wines.
The Importance of Service in Sommelier Work
As Bosker progresses in her sommelier training, she realizes that knowledge of wine is only part of the equation. Equally important is the art of service – the ability to present and pour wine with grace and precision while reading and responding to guests' needs and preferences.
The author humorously recounts her early attempts at mastering the technical aspects of wine service, such as decanting wine over a candle to remove sediment. What should be an elegant process initially results in minor fire damage to her kitchen cabinet. This anecdote highlights the steep learning curve involved in becoming a proficient sommelier.
Bosker learns that there's an exhaustive list of dos and don'ts when it comes to wine service. Some of these rules include pouring for women before men, serving guests before hosts, moving clockwise around the table, and never picking up a glass to pour wine into it. Perhaps most importantly, a sommelier must never let the wine drip – a cardinal sin in the world of fine dining.
However, Bosker discovers that excellent service goes beyond these technical skills. It also involves making delicate judgments about guests' preferences and desires, often reading between the lines of what they say they want and what they actually need.
She cites the example of Victoria James, a young sommelier at a high-end Manhattan restaurant, who explains how she navigates these subtle social dynamics. James describes a scenario where a young male banker might ask for the "biggest wine you've got," despite ordering a delicate fish dish. In such cases, a skilled sommelier must find a wine that complements the food while also satisfying the guest's desire to feel powerful and sophisticated.
Bosker also learns about the financial importance of wine service for restaurants. While there's a limit to how much a restaurant can charge for food, wine sales can be incredibly lucrative. In some high-end establishments, it's not uncommon for big spenders to drop $500 to $1,000 or more on a single bottle of wine.
As she practices her service skills, Bosker gains a new appreciation for the complexity and importance of this aspect of sommelier work. She realizes that being a great sommelier is not just about having an encyclopedic knowledge of wine, but also about providing an exceptional experience for guests.
The Elusive Nature of Wine Quality
As Bosker deepens her understanding of wine, she grapples with a fundamental question: What makes a wine "good"? She discovers that the answer is far from straightforward and often subjective.
When it comes to price and quality, Bosker learns that there's a point of diminishing returns. While a $60 bottle will generally taste significantly better than a $6 bottle, the difference between a $60 and a $600 bottle may not be as noticeable. According to Karl Storchmann, an NYU economist who runs the Journal of Wine Economics, once you pass a certain price threshold, you're paying more for scarcity than for quality. Ultra-expensive wines from producers like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are often priced based on their rarity and collectible status rather than a proportional increase in quality.
Bosker also explores the world of mass-market wines and the role of technology in winemaking. She discovers that many inexpensive wines are artificially manipulated to enhance their flavors and aromas. Techniques range from using oak chips instead of expensive oak barrels to adding designer yeasts or grape juice concentrates like Mega Purple. While some wine purists view these interventions as inauthentic, others argue that if they result in better-tasting, affordable wines, they may not be inherently wrong.
In her quest to define wine quality, Bosker encounters various perspectives from wine professionals. Some describe it in almost spiritual terms, while others focus on technical aspects like balance and complexity. However, she finds herself drawn to a simpler, more intuitive definition offered by a wine bar owner: good wine is "yummy." It's wine that makes you want to take another sip, and then another glass.
This perspective resonates with Bosker because it shifts the focus from abstract notions of quality to the simple pleasure of drinking wine. It suggests that, ultimately, the best wine is the one you enjoy drinking, regardless of its price or pedigree.
The Problem with Wine Tasting Notes
As Bosker hones her tasting skills, she becomes increasingly aware of the disconnect between professional wine descriptions and the average wine drinker's experience. She listens to sommeliers rattling off elaborate tasting notes, using descriptors like "dusty-road," "stale beer," and "desiccated strawberry." While these terms might be meaningful to wine professionals, they often leave casual wine drinkers confused and intimidated.
Research supports this observation. Bosker cites a 2007 study where participants tasted two wines and read professional tasting notes for each. When asked to match the wines to their descriptions, the participants performed no better than if they had guessed randomly. This suggests that overly complex or obscure tasting notes do little to help most people understand or appreciate wine.
To address this issue, Bosker explores the work of Ann Noble, a sensory chemist and professor who created the Wine Aroma Wheel. Noble's system provides a more accessible and standardized vocabulary for describing wine aromas, organized into 12 clear categories like spicy, fragrant, woody, and earthy. Importantly, Noble limited her descriptors to smells that could be found in a typical supermarket, making them more relatable to the average wine drinker.
While Noble's system offers a more practical approach to describing wine, Bosker also sees value in more evocative, poetic descriptions. She argues that there's still a place for romantic, artistic descriptors that can capture the essence of a wine's character, even if they're not strictly descriptive. For example, describing a Nebbiolo as "a male ballet dancer" or a German Riesling as "a killer pair of stiletto heels" might not be scientifically accurate, but it can evoke a vivid impression that enhances the drinking experience.
Ultimately, Bosker suggests a balance between precise, understandable descriptors and more imaginative language that can capture the excitement and emotion of drinking great wine.
The Sommelier Exam and Beyond
After a year of intense study and practice, Bosker finally faces her Certified Sommelier exam. This challenging test covers three main areas: wine knowledge, blind tasting, and service.
Bosker feels confident about the knowledge portion, having memorized countless facts about wine regions, grape varieties, and production methods. She's also comfortable with blind tasting, having practiced daily before breakfast. However, the service portion of the exam remains her biggest concern.
To prepare, Bosker spends her evenings practicing elegant movements around her kitchen, using a cutting board as a tray and pouring cheap prosecco for imaginary guests. She focuses on mastering the intricate steps of opening and serving sparkling wine, a task that had given her trouble in the past.
When exam day arrives, Bosker is understandably nervous. Her service test involves serving sparkling wine to a Master Sommelier while being judged on her technique and knowledge. To her surprise and relief, everything comes together perfectly. She opens the bottle smoothly, serves with grace and confidence, and expertly answers questions about Champagne vintages and food pairings.
To her delight, Bosker passes the exam, becoming a certified sommelier just 18 months after barely knowing what the term meant. This achievement marks a significant milestone in her wine journey and opens up new opportunities in the wine industry.
Following her certification, Bosker takes a job at Terroir, a casual yet passionate wine bar in Manhattan. Here, she puts her newly acquired skills to use, helping guests discover great wines and enhancing their dining experiences. She finds joy in seeing customers take another sip, order another glass, or even splurge on another bottle, knowing that she's played a part in their wine appreciation journey.
Final Thoughts
Bianca Bosker's journey from wine novice to certified sommelier in "Cork Dork" offers valuable insights into the world of wine appreciation. While most of us may not aspire to become professional sommeliers, there are several key takeaways that can enhance our enjoyment of wine:
Develop your senses: Investing time in improving your ability to smell and taste can greatly enhance your wine experience. Simple exercises like smelling different fruits, herbs, and spices can help train your nose to pick up subtle aromas in wine.
Approach wine tasting methodically: Use the techniques Bosker learned, such as observing the wine's appearance, taking time to smell deeply, and paying attention to the wine's texture and body. This systematic approach can help you appreciate the nuances of different wines.
Don't be intimidated by wine jargon: Remember that overly complex tasting notes often don't help the average wine drinker. Focus on what you enjoy and use simple, relatable terms to describe your experience.
Trust sommeliers: When dining out, don't be afraid to put yourself in the hands of a sommelier. They often know their wine list inside out and can guide you to hidden gems that offer great value.
Enjoy the journey: Wine appreciation is a continuous learning process. Don't worry about becoming an expert overnight. Instead, focus on exploring different wines and discovering what you like.
Quality is subjective: Remember that a "good" wine is ultimately one that you enjoy drinking. Don't feel pressured to like expensive or highly rated wines if they don't appeal to your personal taste.
Consider the context: Wine enjoyment isn't just about what's in the glass. The setting, the company, and the food pairing all contribute to the overall experience.
Be open to new experiences: Try wines from unfamiliar regions or grape varieties. You might discover new favorites that you would have otherwise overlooked.
Practice mindful drinking: Take the time to really focus on the wine you're drinking. Engage all your senses and try to identify different aromas and flavors. This mindful approach can make even modest wines more interesting and enjoyable.
Remember that wine is meant to be enjoyed: While it's fascinating to learn about the intricacies of wine production and tasting, don't let it become so serious that you forget to have fun. At its core, wine is about pleasure and conviviality.
Bosker's journey reminds us that the world of wine is vast and complex, but also incredibly rewarding. Whether you're a casual wine drinker or an aspiring connoisseur, there's always something new to learn and experience. By approaching wine with curiosity, openness, and a willingness to engage your senses, you can unlock a deeper appreciation for this ancient and beloved beverage.
In conclusion, "Cork Dork" offers a captivating glimpse into the passionate and sometimes obsessive world of wine professionals. It demystifies many aspects of wine appreciation while also highlighting the dedication and expertise required to become a top sommelier. Bosker's transformation from wine novice to certified sommelier serves as an inspiration for anyone looking to deepen their understanding and enjoyment of wine.
The book encourages readers to approach wine with both seriousness and playfulness – to appreciate its complexities while also remembering that, at its heart, wine is about pleasure and connection. Whether you're swirling a glass of grand cru Burgundy or sipping a simple table wine, Bosker's journey reminds us to engage our senses, stay curious, and above all, to savor the experience.
So the next time you pour a glass of wine, take a moment to really look at it, smell it, and taste it. Consider its journey from grape to glass, and the passion of the people who made it. And most importantly, enjoy it – because ultimately, that's what great wine is all about.