The Way We Eat Now Summary

How did humans move from a scarcity of food to an age of abundance riddled with health challenges, and what can we do to redefine our eating habits for the better?

1: The Shift from Scarcity to Abundance

Human history crossed a remarkable threshold in 2006 when, for the first time, the world saw more people overweight than underfed. This shift from scarcity to abundance brought health-related issues alongside increased access to food.

Modern eating habits have evolved far beyond what our ancestors could have imagined. In hunter-gatherer societies, half of daily calories came from wild fruits and greens. Gradually, with the onset of agriculture, diets became more centered around staple crops like rice and wheat. By the 1800s, agricultural industrialization diversified diets further.

Post-World War II industrialization vastly increased food production and distribution. Companies pushed processed foods laden with additives, sweeteners, and oils to maximize profits. This fourth stage of food culture increased global production but introduced serious health risks, with obesity and diet-related diseases rising worldwide.

Examples

• In 2019, U.S. processed food companies earned 15.5 cents on every food sale compared to 10.5 cents earned by farmers.
• Between 1950 and 1990, worldwide cereal production tripled, reflecting the agricultural boom.
• The prevalence of trans fats and artificial flavoring in modern diets has contributed to health issues, including obesity and heart disease.

2: Our Bodies Struggle with Sudden Dietary Changes

The rapid shifts in food availability and production don’t align with how the human body has evolved over millennia, leaving us more vulnerable to diseases.

India provides a striking example, where increasing food abundance in the 1990s caused a diabetes epidemic. Babies unprepared for calorie-rich diets, due to evolution in famine-like conditions, were found to store body fat in dangerous ways. This phenomenon made type 2 diabetes more common in young, seemingly healthy individuals.

Likewise, liquid calories present a growing problem. Modern humans drink an alarming number of calories – often unknowingly – without compensating by eating less. About 450 calories a day came from beverages in 2010, compared to just 150 calories per day in 1965, exacerbating weight issues globally.

Examples

• In Pune, India, rural children genetically predisposed to scarcity faced health problems when exposed to calorie-dense diets.
• A U.S. study found people gained weight from sugary drinks as their body didn’t feel as "full" as after eating solids.
• The rise in fruit juices masquerading as healthy has added hidden sugars to people’s diets.

3: The Hidden Risks of Processed Foods

Processed foods make up more than half of American calorie intake, and their affordability often masks their true health costs.

Refined vegetable oils, particularly soy oil, have been massive contributors to calorie increases in processed foods. These oils are found in soft drinks, instant noodles, and frozen products. Meanwhile, fresh vegetables have become pricier over time, putting healthy choices out of financial reach for many families.

The growing consumption of processed meats is another concern. Globally, as incomes rise, processed meats replace traditional staples like rice and potatoes. This shift towards cheap, unhealthy meat products further worsens dietary quality in many households.

Examples

• From 1962 to 2009, global soy oil production increased by 320 percent.
• Junk food prices in the UK fell 15 percent between 1997 and 2009, while vegetable prices rose by 7 percent.
• Chicken production has doubled worldwide since the 1970s, often in heavily processed forms.

4: Losing the Art of Shared Meals

Social meals are disappearing as we shift toward solitary eating habits dominated by snacks and fast food.

In earlier times, meal breaks were longer and more communal. For instance, German textile workers in the 1920s took daily 90-minute communal lunches. Today, this has been replaced by hurried snacks – often ultra-processed – grabbed during short breaks or eaten alone at desks.

This societal shift is evident even among health workers. Nurses working irregular hours averaged a body mass index (BMI) of 27.2 (classified as overweight) in a 2008 survey, reflecting unhealthy eating habits. Fast food and snacks have become diet staples, accounting for up to 37 percent of children’s energy intake in the U.S.

Examples

• By 2015, China’s snack industry grew to over $7 billion, reflecting global trends.
• A Philadelphia study in 2011 highlighted how low-income families relied heavily on processed snacks.
• Spain’s tradition of siestas shortened post-2008, leading to quicker and less mindful eating.

5: Food Fads Come with Global Costs

Popular food trends, such as quinoa and coconut products, often take a toll on producers from poorer nations.

Quinoa’s rise as a health food amongst Western consumers doubled its price globally, making it unaffordable for Bolivian farmers who relied on it for sustenance. Similarly, the coconut craze has caused shortages, raising concerns about sustainability.

Also, deceptive practices thrive during food booms. For instance, during the pomegranate juice fad in the mid-2000s, fraudulent drinks falsely labeled “100% pomegranate” flooded the market as demand outstripped global supply.

Examples

• Production of quinoa in Peru skyrocketed from 22,500 metric tons in 1961 to over 114,300 by 2014.
• Coconut-based foods recently triggered doubts about the ability of global farms to meet demand sustainably.
• Professor Chris Elliott linked mislabeled fruit juices to hasty supply chains during health booms.

6: Eating Out Increases Health Risks

The rise of dining out leaves many consumers unhealthily overindulging and racking up calories.

Restaurants know how to make their offerings more appealing by using more sugar and fats in food preparation. Fast-food outlets, in particular, serve meals low in nutrients like fiber but high in harmful additives. This shift has implications for public health, especially among children living near fast-food outlets.

Meanwhile, large supermarkets give buyers an illusion of choice but often market ultra-processed items, which attract us thanks to their strategic packaging and flavors.

Examples

• Fast-food proximity raised childhood obesity rates by 5.2 percent in one Columbia University study.
• Supermarket shelves often prioritize processed snacks that appeal to behaviors like impulsive buying.
• Food bank use in the UK increased from 70,000 users in 2011 to 347,000 in 2013.

7: Self-Imposed Food Limits

Many people today respond to the overwhelming number of food options by following restrictive diets.

Vegetarianism and veganism are gaining popularity as more sustainable and health-conscious diets. Veganism alone increased by 350 percent in the UK between 2006 and 2017. Meal replacement shakes are also becoming widespread among busy individuals aiming to maintain balanced nutrient intake.

Such choices not only help navigate the abundance of unhealthy foods but promote better environmental practices.

Examples

• In 2016, meal replacement drink Huel became popular among 1 million global users.
• The number of UK vegetarians doubled from 1994 to 2011.
• Excess food choice often leads to “decision paralysis,” reducing happiness, as noted by psychologist Barry Schwartz.

8: Innovations in Home Cooking Remain Costly

New home-cooking innovations like meal kits and high-tech gadgets make cooking more accessible but are not affordable for everyone.

Products like the Bimby, a multi-function food processor, and meal-kit services are heralded as ways to get more people cooking at home. Yet, these remain costly luxuries, meaning they are out of reach for many lower-income households.

However, increased participation from men and changing family dynamics show promising shifts in who cooks at home.

Examples

• Male Americans increased kitchen time from 37 minutes in 1965 to 45 minutes in 2007.
• Meal-kit delivery businesses had reached a $5 billion valuation in the U.S. by 2017.
• The Bimby’s popularity in Italy is tempered by its high price of $1,000.

9: The Road to Smarter Eating

Solving global dietary challenges requires governments, grassroots initiatives, and corporations working collaboratively.

Countries like Chile, which imposed taxes on sugary beverages and pushed bold labeling laws, have seen massive positive results. At the same time, grassroots movements like Peas Please in the UK promote the consumption of vegetables through innovative advertising and partnerships with supermarkets.

Efforts like these could lead the world toward a new stage of mindful, healthier eating.

Examples

• Chile’s soda tax led Coca-Cola to reduce sugar in 65 percent of its beverages sold there.
• Peas Please attracted commitments from major UK food retailers to increase vegetable sales.
• Clear warning labels swayed 40 percent of Chilean consumers toward healthier purchases.

Takeaways

1. Try smaller, vintage dinner plates to help serve and eat less, reducing meal sizes easily.
2. Rethink snacks by substituting processed items with healthier, more affordable homemade options.
3. Join local food movements or initiatives to encourage sustainable and healthy eating practices.