Introduction
In "The Way We Eat Now," food writer Bee Wilson takes a deep dive into the dramatic changes that have occurred in our relationship with food over the past few generations. She explores how the global food system has evolved, the impact this has had on our health and society, and what we can do to create a more sustainable and nourishing food future.
Wilson argues that we're living through an unprecedented food revolution. Never before in human history have we had such abundance and variety in our diets. Yet paradoxically, this abundance has led to new health challenges and a disconnection from where our food comes from. By examining current trends and looking back at how we used to eat, Wilson aims to help us navigate the complex modern food landscape and make more informed choices about what we put on our plates.
The Four Stages of Food History
To understand how we arrived at our current food situation, Wilson outlines four key stages in the history of human eating:
Stage 1: Hunter-Gatherer Era
In this earliest stage of human history, our ancestors obtained food through hunting wild animals and gathering wild plants. Their diets were diverse, consisting of a wide variety of foods depending on what was available in their environment. About half of their calories came from wild fruits and greens, with the rest coming from animal sources.
This hunter-gatherer diet was generally quite healthy and well-balanced. Our bodies evolved to thrive on this type of varied, unprocessed food. However, food supply was often unpredictable and required constant work to obtain.
Stage 2: Early Agriculture
Around 20,000 BCE, humans began developing agriculture. This allowed for more stable food supplies but led to less diverse diets centered around a few staple crops like wheat and rice. While agriculture enabled the growth of larger, settled communities, it also made people more vulnerable to crop failures and famines.
Stage 3: Agricultural Innovations
Starting in the 1800s, new farming techniques like crop rotation and fertilizers expanded the variety of foods that could be grown. This reduced the risk of famine and allowed for more varied diets. However, food production was still largely local and seasonal.
Stage 4: The Age of Plenty
After World War II, we entered what Wilson calls the "age of plenty." Industrialized agriculture, global trade, and food processing technology created an unprecedented abundance and variety of food, at least in developed nations. For the first time in history, the average person had access to foods from all over the world year-round.
While this solved the problem of food scarcity for many, it has created new challenges around obesity, diet-related diseases, and environmental sustainability. We're now grappling with the consequences of this rapid shift to ultra-processed, globally sourced foods that our bodies haven't evolved to handle.
The Obesity Paradox
One of the most striking impacts of our modern food system is what Wilson calls the "obesity paradox." For the first time in history, there are now more overweight and obese people in the world than undernourished people. This milestone was reached in 2006.
However, being overweight doesn't necessarily mean people are well-nourished. Many people are simultaneously overfed and undernourished, consuming excess calories but not getting enough essential nutrients. This is largely due to the prevalence of cheap, calorie-dense but nutrient-poor processed foods.
Wilson cites a 2015 global study that found fruit consumption has been steadily increasing worldwide. However, this positive trend is overshadowed by even greater increases in the consumption of unhealthy foods like sugary drinks, processed meats, and foods containing trans fats. As a result, obesity rates and diet-related diseases are skyrocketing in many parts of the world.
This paradox is particularly evident in developing countries experiencing rapid economic growth. As incomes rise, people often shift from traditional diets to more processed Western-style foods, leading to what's known as the "nutrition transition." This can result in populations dealing with the double burden of both undernutrition and obesity-related health problems.
The Mismatch Between Our Bodies and Modern Diets
A key theme in Wilson's book is that our bodies haven't had time to adapt to the dramatic changes in our food environment. Evolutionarily speaking, the shift to our current diet has happened in the blink of an eye. This mismatch between our biology and our food supply is at the root of many modern health problems.
Wilson illustrates this concept with the example of India's diabetes epidemic. In the 1990s, India experienced a surge in type 2 diabetes cases, particularly among young, relatively thin individuals. This puzzled researchers until Dr. Chittaranjan Yajnik conducted a study comparing Indian and British babies.
Yajnik found that Indian babies tended to be thinner overall but had more abdominal fat compared to British babies. He dubbed this phenomenon "thin-fat babies." His theory was that Indian mothers who grew up with food scarcity in the 1970s passed on genes preparing their children for a similar environment of scarcity. However, by the time these women had children in the 1990s, food availability had increased dramatically.
As a result, these babies were born with bodies prepared for scarcity but faced an environment of relative abundance. This mismatch left them more susceptible to developing diabetes, even at lower body weights than typically associated with the disease.
This example shows how quickly changes in food availability can outpace our bodies' ability to adapt, leading to unexpected health consequences. It's a pattern that's playing out in various ways around the world as traditional diets are rapidly replaced by more processed, calorie-dense foods.
The Beverage Revolution
Another striking example of how our diets have changed is what Wilson calls the "beverage revolution." In just a few decades, we've dramatically increased the number of calories we consume through drinks.
As of 2010, Americans were getting an average of 450 calories per day from beverages - more than double what they consumed from drinks in 1965. This is equivalent to drinking an entire meal's worth of calories every day, on top of the food we eat.
The problem is that most people don't compensate for these liquid calories by eating less food. Our bodies don't seem to register calories from drinks the same way they do calories from solid food. So when we increase our consumption of caloric beverages, we're often just adding extra calories to our diets without feeling any fuller.
This trend has been driven by several factors:
- The rise of sugary soft drinks
- Increased consumption of fruit juices, which are often perceived as healthy but can be high in calories
- The popularity of sweetened coffee drinks and energy drinks
- Alcohol consumption, which adds empty calories
Wilson argues that this shift towards caloric beverages is a major contributor to the obesity epidemic. It's an example of how seemingly small changes in our eating habits can have big impacts on our health over time.
The Rise of Ultra-Processed Foods
One of the most significant changes in our modern diet is the increasing dominance of ultra-processed foods. These are industrial formulations made mostly from substances extracted from foods (like oils, fats, sugars, and starches) along with additives. They bear little resemblance to whole, natural foods.
Wilson cites alarming statistics about the prevalence of these foods:
- As of 2019, ultra-processed foods accounted for 57.9% of calories in the average American diet.
- In developing countries receiving U.S. food aid, the vast majority of aid dollars are spent on processed foods rather than whole foods.
The rise of ultra-processed foods has been driven by several factors:
- They're cheap to produce and have long shelf lives, making them profitable for food companies.
- They're designed to be hyper-palatable, often hitting the "bliss point" of sugar, salt, and fat that makes us crave more.
- They're convenient, requiring little to no preparation.
- Aggressive marketing has made them seem normal and desirable.
One of the key ingredients in many ultra-processed foods is refined vegetable oil, particularly soybean oil. Global soybean oil production increased by 320% between 1962 and 2009. These oils are cheap sources of calories but offer little nutritional value and may contribute to inflammation in the body.
At the same time that ultra-processed foods have become cheaper and more available, the relative price of fresh fruits and vegetables has increased in many places. Wilson notes that between 1997 and 2009 in the UK, the price of junk food fell by 15% while the price of fresh produce rose by 7%.
This price discrepancy makes it challenging for many people, especially those on tight budgets, to choose healthier whole foods over processed options. It's a key factor in why diet quality often correlates with socioeconomic status.
The Meat Dilemma
Another major shift in global diets has been the increasing consumption of meat, particularly processed meats. As incomes rise in developing countries, people often increase their meat consumption as a sign of prosperity.
Wilson points out that for many families around the world, meat is still a rare treat or completely unaffordable. But once household incomes reach a certain level, cheap processed meats often become more desirable than traditional staples like bread, rice, or potatoes.
This trend is evident in consumption patterns:
- Between 1880 and 1975, bread consumption in the UK dropped by 50%.
- Between the 1970s and today, the global supply of chicken has doubled.
The problem is that many of the meats people are consuming more of are heavily processed and full of additives. These processed meats have been linked to increased risks of various health problems, including heart disease and certain cancers.
Moreover, the environmental impact of increased meat consumption is significant. Meat production, especially beef, is a major contributor to greenhouse gas emissions and deforestation.
Wilson argues that while it's unrealistic to expect everyone to become vegetarian, reducing meat consumption and choosing higher-quality, less processed meats when we do eat them could have significant benefits for both health and the environment.
The Decline of Communal Eating
One of the less obvious but equally important changes in our eating habits is the decline of communal meals. Wilson contrasts the modern rushed lunch break with a description of textile factory workers in 1920s Germany who would take a 90-minute lunch break to sit down and eat together every day, despite working 54-hour weeks.
Today, more and more people are eating alone, often at their desks or on the go. This shift has several implications:
Loss of social connection: Shared meals have traditionally been a way to strengthen social bonds and synchronize communities. Eating alone misses out on these benefits.
Mindless eating: When we eat alone or while distracted (like at our desks), we're more likely to overeat without realizing it.
Reliance on convenience foods: Quick, portable foods are often more processed and less nutritious than home-cooked meals.
Impact on food choices: We tend to make different (often less healthy) food choices when eating alone compared to eating with others.
Wilson points out that some of the worst eating habits can be found among health workers, like nurses working night shifts who only have a few minutes to grab something from a vending machine between patients. This highlights how our modern work culture often makes it difficult to prioritize healthy eating.
The Snackification of Meals
As traditional meal times have shortened or disappeared for many people, snacking has increased dramatically. Wilson notes that according to recent surveys, snacks account for one-third of the average American's daily calories.
This trend towards "snackification" has several drivers:
Busy lifestyles: Many people feel they don't have time for proper meals and rely on snacks to get through the day.
Marketing: The snack food industry has grown enormously and aggressively markets its products.
Affordability: For low-income families, snacks can be an economical way to stave off hunger or provide small treats.
Constant availability: Snack foods are available everywhere, making it easy to graze throughout the day.
The problem is that most snack foods are highly processed and offer little nutritional value. A 2010 study found that while snack foods accounted for 37% of the energy intake in American children, they only provided 15-30% of essential micronutrients.
This shift towards snacking is happening globally. In China, for example, the snack industry grew from virtually non-existent to being worth over $7 billion between 2004 and 2015.
Wilson argues that this trend is concerning from a health perspective and that we need to find ways to make nutritious meals more accessible and appealing, especially for those with limited time and resources.
The Global Impact of Food Trends
In our interconnected world, food trends can have far-reaching consequences that go beyond individual health. Wilson explores how the popularity of certain foods in wealthy countries can impact communities and ecosystems around the world.
She uses the example of quinoa, a gluten-free, high-protein grain that became extremely popular among health-conscious consumers in Western countries. As demand skyrocketed:
- Quinoa production in Peru grew from 22,500 metric tons per year in 1961 to 114,300 in 2014.
- In Bolivia, the price for 100 kilos of quinoa rose from $28.40 to $204.50.
While this boom brought economic benefits to some farmers, it also meant that many local people in quinoa-growing regions could no longer afford to buy this traditional staple food. Instead, they turned to cheaper, often less nutritious alternatives like instant noodles.
This example illustrates how our food choices can have unintended consequences on global food systems and local economies. It highlights the need for more sustainable and equitable approaches to food production and distribution.
The Deception in Food Marketing
Wilson also delves into how food trends can lead to deceptive practices in the food industry. She uses the example of the pomegranate juice boom in the United States between 2004 and 2008.
During this period, pomegranate juice was marketed as a superfood with special antioxidant properties. Consumption skyrocketed from 75 million eight-ounce servings in 2004 to 450 million in 2008. By 2008, three-quarters of pomegranate juice products claimed to be 100% pure pomegranate.
However, according to food fraud expert Chris Elliott, it would have been impossible for there to be enough pomegranate trees in the world to produce this much pure juice in such a short time. Instead, many products were likely adulterated with cheaper juices like apple or grape, then repackaged and shipped through various countries to obscure their origins.
This case study shows how food trends can create opportunities for fraud and deception in the food industry. It underscores the need for better regulation and transparency in our food systems.
The Supermarket Dilemma
The rise of large supermarkets has dramatically changed how we shop for food. While they offer an unprecedented variety of products - up to 50,000 in some stores - this abundance can be overwhelming and doesn't necessarily lead to healthier choices.
Wilson points out several issues with the supermarket model:
Illusion of choice: While there seem to be endless options, many products are variations of the same processed foods owned by a handful of large corporations.
Promotion of processed foods: The most profitable items for supermarkets are often the least healthy, and these tend to get prime shelf space and promotional deals.
Anonymity: Unlike in small local shops, there's no social pressure to make healthy choices in a supermarket.
Impulse buying: The layout and marketing techniques in supermarkets are designed to encourage unplanned purchases, often of less healthy items.
At the same time, Wilson notes that for many people, even the abundance of supermarkets is out of reach. She cites the dramatic increase in food bank usage in the UK, from 70,000 people in 2011 to 347,000 in 2013. This highlights the growing inequality in access to food, even in wealthy countries.
The Paradox of Choice
In a world of seemingly endless food options, many people are paradoxically choosing to restrict their diets. Wilson explores the rise of specific eating patterns like vegetarianism and veganism:
- The number of vegetarians in the UK approximately doubled to seven million between 1994 and 2011.
- The number of vegans in the UK rose 350% between 2006 and 2017, reaching 542,000 people.
Wilson suggests that these self-imposed restrictions can be a way of navigating the overwhelming abundance of choices in our modern food environment. By eliminating certain foods, people can simplify their decisions and feel more in control of their diets.
She also notes that reducing meat consumption, even if not eliminating it entirely, can be a good strategy for improving nutrition and reducing environmental impact. When vegetables are the main component of a meal, it naturally increases the intake of beneficial nutrients.
The Rise of Meal Replacements
Another modern trend Wilson examines is the growing popularity of meal replacement products. These often come in the form of powders that are mixed with water to create a drink that supposedly contains all the nutrients of a balanced meal.
Key points about meal replacements:
- As of 2016, around a million people worldwide were estimated to have tried drinkable meals.
- They appeal to busy people looking for a quick, convenient way to get nutrition.
- They're often more affordable than traditional healthy meals.
However, Wilson questions whether these products can truly replace the experience and satisfaction of eating real food. While they may provide necessary nutrients, they lack the sensory experience and social aspects of eating that are important for overall well-being.
Changes in Home Cooking
Despite the trends towards convenience foods and eating out, Wilson finds some encouraging signs in home cooking habits:
- Between 1965 and 2007, the average time American women spent in the kitchen dropped from 112.8 to 65.6 minutes per day.
- During the same period, men's time in the kitchen increased from 37 to 45 minutes per day.
- In 2017, 45% of Americans said they sometimes cook at home and don't mind it, up from 35% in 2002.
This suggests a more equitable distribution of cooking responsibilities and a renewed interest in home cooking among some segments of the population.
Wilson also explores new services aimed at making home cooking easier:
Meal-kit delivery services: These provide pre-measured ingredients and recipes for home cooking, removing the need for meal planning and grocery shopping. The meal-kit industry quickly grew to a $5 billion market in the US.
Multi-function kitchen appliances: Devices like the Bimby, which can weigh, chop, mix, and cook, aim to simplify the cooking process. In Italy, one in 30 people owns a Bimby.
However, Wilson notes that many of these innovations remain out of reach for lower-income families due to their high cost. This highlights the ongoing challenge of making healthy home cooking accessible to all.
Government Interventions
Wilson argues that to address the complex challenges of our modern food system, we need action at the governmental level. She points to Chile as an example of effective policy interventions:
In 2016, Chile was facing a health crisis:
- Chileans were consuming more sugary drinks per capita than any other country.
- About 66% of adults were overweight or obese.
The Chilean government responded with bold measures:
- Imposed an 18% sales tax on sugar-sweetened beverages.
- Banned the use of cartoon characters to market sugary cereals to children.
- Required clear warning labels on foods high in sugar, salt, or unhealthy fats.
The results were promising:
- 40% of Chileans reported finding the new labels helpful in making purchasing decisions.
- 65% of sodas sold by Coca-Cola in Chile are now low or reduced sugar products.
This case study shows how government policies can shape the food environment and nudge both consumers and food companies towards healthier choices.
Grassroots Initiatives
While government action is crucial, Wilson also highlights the importance of grassroots efforts in creating positive change in our food systems. She uses the example of the "Peas Please" campaign launched by Anna Taylor in the UK in 2016.
The campaign aims to increase vegetable consumption in Britain through several strategies:
Addressing the advertising imbalance: In 2015, only £12 million was spent advertising vegetables in the UK, compared to £87 million for soft drinks alone. Peas Please uses crowdfunding to increase vegetable advertising.
Engaging food businesses: The campaign has secured commitments from major supermarkets and food chains to increase their vegetable offerings. For example, the low-cost café chain Greggs promised to increase vegetable sales by 15 million portions between 2018 and 2020.
Changing perceptions: The campaign works to make vegetables more appealing and normalize their consumption as a larger part of meals.
This initiative demonstrates how concerned citizens can take action to address food system issues, complementing government efforts and influencing both consumers and businesses.
Looking to the Future: Stage Five of Food History
Throughout the book, Wilson has outlined four historical stages of human eating. She concludes by speculating on what a fifth stage might look like.
Given that stage four has been characterized by abundance but also by numerous health and environmental problems, Wilson suggests that stage five needs to focus on:
Making smarter choices within abundance: Learning to navigate the overwhelming variety of food options to create balanced, nutritious diets.
Sustainability: Developing food systems that can feed the world's growing population without destroying the environment.
Equity: Ensuring that healthy, nutritious food is accessible to all, not just the wealthy.
Reconnecting with food: Moving away from ultra-processed products and rediscovering the pleasures of real, whole foods.
Balancing tradition and innovation: Preserving valuable food traditions while embracing helpful new technologies and scientific insights.
Policy changes: Implementing government policies that create healthier food environments and make it easier for people to make good choices.
Education: Improving food literacy so people have the knowledge to make informed decisions about what they eat.
Wilson argues that achieving this next stage will require efforts from all sectors of society - governments, businesses, communities, and individuals. It's a challenge, but also an opportunity to create a healthier, more sustainable, and more equitable food future.
Conclusion
"The Way We Eat Now" provides a comprehensive overview of the dramatic changes in our food systems and eating habits over the past few generations. Bee Wilson illustrates how these changes have brought both benefits and challenges, from reduced hunger in many parts of the world to new health crises related to poor diet quality.
Key takeaways from the book include:
Our bodies haven't had time to adapt to the rapid changes in our food environment, leading to numerous health issues.
The rise of ultra-processed foods, increased meat consumption, and the "snackification" of our diets have had significant impacts on health and the environment.
Changes in how we eat, including more solo dining and less home cooking, have social and health implications.
Food trends can have far-reaching global consequences, affecting economies and ecosystems around the world.
The abundance of choice in our modern food environment can be overwhelming, leading some people to adopt restrictive diets as a coping mechanism.
Both government interventions and grassroots initiatives have important roles to play in creating healthier food systems.
Moving into the next stage of our food history will require balancing abundance with wisdom, sustainability, and equity.
Wilson's work challenges us to think critically about our current food system and our personal eating habits. She argues that by understanding how we got to where we are now, we can make more informed choices about how we want to eat in the future.
Ultimately, "The Way We Eat Now" is a call to action. It asks us to reconsider our relationship with food, not just for our own health, but for the health of our communities and our planet. By making conscious choices about what we eat and supporting policies and initiatives that promote healthier food systems, we can all play a part in shaping a better food future.